'24 Travel Planner: Florence, Italy

Sharing my absolute favorites (even ones I want to keep secret!)

icons at the Ponte Vecchio, Florence, Italy

Hi Friends,

How are you this week? 

I hope everyone is doing ok. 

The world is a wild place. I’m sending everyone here a little peace and kindness and I hope something beautiful happens for you today. 

On to travel talk: 

I’ve been talking with some travel folks and friends the last couple of weeks and things are busy in the travel planning space. Most people are all booked out (for intimate travel tours) for 2024 and are adding on or opening their 2025 calendars. I just had a long chat with one of my subscribers this week about Italy and I so love helping people with their itineraries. 

Today I’m going back to Florence, Italy listing out my very favorite places, including some new ones discovered on this last visit that are now a must in my book. 

Are you going to Florence this year (hopefully not in the summer)? Let me know! 

This past autumn and early winter I split my 3-months time between Torino (Turin) and Florence. When I was planning my Italy itinerary last summer I almost didn’t go to Florence. I spent two months there in 2022 and 2021, ‘21 being my first visit to Italy. That seems unreal to me now, that I had never visited before but life presents opportunities when you are ready for them. Or at least that is what I think.  

In the Piazza Signoria, empty on a rainy Saturday in 2021

2021 I spent mid-November to late January 2022 in Florence and it was beyond dreamy. It was still very, very quiet due to Covid and there were hardly any [American] tourists. I fell incredibly hard for this stunning, magical city. I walked miles and miles every day and made friends with locals ate and drank delicious foods and felt like I was in a dream. 

Piazza Michelangelo - December 2021

I returned to Florence in mid-November 2022 to stay through late January 2023. It was definitely busier but not insane. My apartment, which I’ve stayed in every time now, is located in the Oltrarno, which means “the other side of the Arno river” and refers to the area south of the Arno across from the historic center and the Duomo. I love living in the Oltrarno, which is home to so many local Florentines and has some of the very best cafes, restaurants, Piazzas, and bars. I make sure to stay away from the center and the Ponte Vecchio on the weekends (when it’s wild) and my trips to museums and visiting my favorites in the Piazza Signoria are always in the middle of the week. 

So, this past summer, as I started to lay out my plan I was wondering if I needed to choose a different area of Italy to explore, rather than return to Florence. Italy has so many incredible cities and towns to explore and they all have their own specialties in food, wine, and artists. 

But, my heart called me back to Florence. Honestly. And my heart was not wrong. 

I decided to go to Torino for mid-October ’23 through mid-November; go to Florence from mid-November through just a week before Christmas and then return to Torino, to stay in a different part of the city, until mid-January. 

From the minute I landed in Florence (which was quite crazy - see my story about train strikes and pivots here), it was like coming home. Opening the door to my apartment, which is called “Bea” feels so familiar now, as well as the wonderful welcome from Paola and Roberto who own my apartment and live just across the way. 

My first walk on the Arno this visit was just as stunning as the first time I did it.

My first walk on the Arno - 2021

There is something really special about this river and the bridges that connect the “center” from the Oltrarno. I never, ever get tired of it. Is the sky and its puffy clouds and colors of light to deep pinks and blues the reason so many artists have flocked here? 

While the Ponte Vecchio is certainly the most famous of the Firenze bridges and has so much personality, I find them all to have unique viewpoints that are all special. 

I have so many pictures on my phone of this view below and it never gets old. 

My son painted this view for me, the one I love so much, after visiting me in Florence for a week in 2022 and it is one of my most treasured items I carry with me everywhere. 

Walk Everywhere and Look Up

From the very first visit, it became my ritual on Sundays to take a long walk along the Arno, from my neighborhood bridge, Ponte Amerigo Vespucci to circle around at the Ponte S. Niccolo. I will veer off from the river and walk up to the Piazza Michelangelo and up some more to San Miniato Church and spend time in the cemetery there. 

San Miniato Church is very special both inside and out.

The cemetery is one of my favorite places in the world. Just trust me.

To visit is worth the steep climb. The views alone are breathtaking. 

I typically will time my walk to stop somewhere delicious for a coffee on the way, usually in my neighborhood at Santa Rosa Bistrot. I also love the team at Rivarno, which is right near the Ponte all Grazie, and I will pop in to say hello and grab a macchiato mid-walk. After descending from the Piazza Michelangelo, if the timing is right, I will stop for snacks and wine at Il Santino - which is my favorite of all wine bars in Florence and all of Italy. 

The street in which Il Santino and Il Santo Bevitore are located, via Santo Spirito, is also a favorite, with art galleries, paper shops, a wonderful florist, and a designer who makes exquisite velvet slippers. Sundays in Florence are pretty wonderful. 

A Social Month 

I have made several friends in Florence over these last few years so I was catching up with Robert at Wild Buns Bakery (voted best in Florence!) and spending time with Sergio, who is the chef at Il Santo Bevitore (Il Santino’s lustrous restaurant), and Frederica who owns Dolce Emporio (best place for foie gras, made by her husband, and wine and anchovy toasts and for buying wonderful food gifts) led to a very social month. I was able to have coffee with Georgette, who is the wonder behind ‘Girl in Florence’ which you should bookmark on instagram if you are visiting Florence for all the best intel. There were dinners, spritz, coffee chats, walks, lunches, Franciacorta (you MUST have Franciacorta in Italy!) And conversations in English and Italian with some Google Translate thrown in for help. 

Social Time in Firenze

A few hours into this Firenze visit, I started thinking that I should have stayed the two months as in the past but in the end I was so glad my trip was exactly as I planned it (I adored my Torino part 2 visit and will be writing about it soon). 

Florence was wonderful delicious and special as always. This time I was introduced to some new places that have to go on your list and I am including some old favorites that parts of me want to keep secret but I cannot. 

UPDATED FLORENCE MUST LIST (this list is not exhaustive - if you are looking for something specific message me and I will help you - Florence just holds too many wonderful places for me to list them all) - If you are only there for a few days, I put stars next to the places I think are a must-must. 

In the Center: 

*Cinema Odeon - I found out from a local friend that this historic cinema was this close to being turned into a hotel and there was a petition to restore it instead. I am so glad they did! It is stunningly beautiful. The cool part is that during the day it is a bookstore and you can sit in the theatre seats and read or work or enjoy the attached cafe. At night, the bookstore closes, and they show films. So. Good.

*Alimentari - Orizi Mariano - Santa Trinita - this is one of the places I discovered the first year I was in Florence and it is so special to me. This family-run spot has the best of everything - coffee, sweet treats (get a cappuccino and riso bundino and you will be in heaven! Definitely get a biscotti) and their tramezzini are so delicious. They serve wine and other spirits and are a very popular spot during Pitti Como - the mens fashion show. When you see the space, and meet the family, you will understand. 

Via del Parione - might be my favorite street in the center - is where Alimentari is located as well as the next three spots below. 

Bottega Di Siguardi - don’t miss popping into this elegant glasses/optometrist store. It is so much more. Just trust me. If you go tell them I sent you. I love them. 

Riccardo Luci Marbled Paper - this paper shop is directly across from Bottega Di Siguardi. 

*Alberto Cozzi Rilegatore Firenze - paper and bookbinding. One of my favorite historic spots. I had a beautiful leather-bound art book made for my son this time, for Christmas. 

*Signoria Piazza - this is where I go to visit “all my favorites” including Perseus and Medusa. It’s a free, open air museum right next to the Uffuzi. 

*The Duomo - visit early in the morning or late at night for quiet perfection

My roasted chestnut vendors - typically found outside Risante department store during the season I am there. I adore chestnuts!

Forno TOP - I was very sad this year that they were closed due to renovating their space but this is a must-visit for some of the most delicious panini sandwiches around. 

*This is so special for my readers! By the Mercado Centrale there is a 3rd generation spot called Casa del Vino. My friend Sergio (chef and teacher) introduced me to this absolutely incredible place this visit when we met up for lunch. It is located in a very “tourist” spot behind all the leather vendor stalls next to the Mercado but is anything but a touristy place. Their food is delicious. THIS is where you want to go for delicious sandwich, epic crostinis, an excellent glass (or bottle!) of wine. Skip the social media instagram famous All Antica Vinaio - trust me - and visit Casa del Vino. You won’t be sorry. 

The Uffuzi - I recommend a mid-week morning visit. In winter if possible. My son and I had the best day here the first of December 2022 and it was practically empty. But I’ve seen lines that are hours long and visiting the museum with that many people just seems awful to me. There are so many treasures in the Uffuzi to spend time and space with. 

Oltrarno spots:

*Wild Buns Bakery - I first discovered Robert’s mad baking skills on my first visit to Florence. Following Georgette @girlinflorence I saw that this person was doing weekend pop-ups at different coffee spots. From my first visit I was hooked by Robert who is darling as a person and a master pastry maker. I went to every pop-up except for the weekend I was in Bologna. One time I walked 42 minutes one way to Coffee Mantra (well worth it!) to get my cardamom bun. In 2022 I was delighted to learn Robert not only opened a brick & mortar but it was an 8-minute walk from my apartment!

**Il Santo Bevitore and Il Santino - my faves. Just go. Whipped Cod Crostini - a must. This is the place where I have met so many friends and I love everyone who works there. The wine list is impeccable and the food. GO.

Il Santino

S. Forno - the bakery of Il Santo Bevitore - charming, delicious (note: they only have drip coffee - no espresso) it is where I stock up on all my bread for home. 

Enoteca 4 Leoni - the wine bar of one of my favorite restaurants in one of the best tiny piazza’s in Santo Spirito - Piazza della Passera. This was the first year I went to this Enoteca even though 4 Leoni is one of my most visited restaurants. I adore it! Lovely people and excellent wines and snacks. A tiny perfect space. Be sure to dine at the restaurant - in the piazza if weather allows.

Santa Rosa Bistro - my neighborhood spot that will set you up for breakfast, lunch, dinner, spritz, wine, and more. Located in the park its perfect for people-watching, reading a book, grabbing a quick macchiato on your way home. Perfection. Wonderful staff. 

La Volpe e l’uva - wine bar - many awards - tucked up by the Ponte Vecchio this is a great spot for snacks and wine. Be sure to chat up the staff on what wine they are loving and you won’t go wrong. 

*Cammillo - completely old-school Italy and elegant - they make the best brodo in Firenze.

Sant Ambrosia Market - this is the market to go to instead of Centrale Mercado. A bit of walk from center but worth it especially for paninno old school good. 

*Dolce Emporio - this elegant tiny spot is owned by my friend Frederica and is a must for a glass of wine, cheese plate, or anchovy toast and food/wine/spirits gifts. Have a glass of Franciacorta at the bar and enjoy her. She’s lovely. 

L’Trippia of San Frediano - located right across from Dolce Emporia - this very popular spot makes some delicious Lamprodotto. 

Vintage: Epoca Vintage Firenze is my absolute favorite vintage shop. I don’t really buy a lot of stuff but I bought a wonderful scarf and belt here. But if I was so inclined I could really load up. Oof. 

*Buy wine for your flat or hotel room at Casa del Vino or Dolce Emporia you can take away at Il Santino or Enoteca 4 Leoni as well. These 4 places are where I buy all my wines for home. 

Neighborhoods:

I recommend the Oltrarno for your stay. The center can get very hectic. And touristy. This is just my opinion but its a hard pass for me.

I love my neighborhood, which is on the outskirts of the San Frediano neighborhood. The bridge I take to the center is called Ponte Amerigo Vespucci and is a 5 minute walk from my front door. I get to Santa Maria Novella in 15 minutes walking. Wild Buns and Dolce Emporio are 5-10 minutes and Il Santino is 15 minutes walking. I have an amazing grocery store 10 minutes away. It’s very chill and I love it.

Santo Spirito - I’ve thought about finding a spot in Santo Spirito which is the coolest neighborhood in my opinion but I love my spot too much. There is so much going on in the way of food, wine, coffee, cocktails, art, access to gardens, and lively piazzas. Plus a quick walk across the Ponte Santa Trinita takes you to the center.

San Niccolo - the base of the Piazza Michelangelo, this neighborhood is lovely with some very good coffee, wine, and restaurants, and is about a 20-30 minute walk to the center .

Ok - wow. So many of my favorite spots! These are really at the top of my list but there is a whole other “secondary” list of fantastic places. I spend so much time out and about when I’m in Florence and I love to meet and chat with people who write me wonderful lists of places they would like to me visit that my list is very, very long. 

Have you been to Florence? Where are your favorite places? Send me a note - I would love to hear about them. 

Looking for help with your trip? Send me a message. 

Ciao, Ciao for now my friends. Happy dreaming and travel planning.