Chasing Autumn: Italy Edition
Don't Sleep on Milan
Hi Friends,
I can’t believe it is November today.
I feel like October went by in a blink of an eye and wasn’t as “autumn-y” as I would have liked but it was still pretty lovely.
I have been lucky to experience crisp days, leaves turning from green to orange to red, and that very special end-of-day light that is specific to October. Most of this occurred in Edinburgh, Scotland and you can check out several posts about Edinburgh and Scotland if you are thinking of visiting or want to be inspired.
Now, I continue to chase autumn in Italy and am currently in Torino. I will be sharing lots about Torino soon (I’ve had quite an exciting first couple of weeks) but first:
Milano
When I transitioned from Scotland to Italy mid-October I flew into Milan arranging to stay for 2 nights. I was a little anxious in the days leading up to my transition as it was still 80 degrees in Milan - ugh.
I (obsessively?) look at Accuweather. Tracking the weather is a lifelong quirk of mine, I believe stemming from growing up in Western Massachusetts and having blizzards from October through May - wild weather that scarred me.
However, I was delighted to see the day before I was to arrive in Milan the hot weather broke and the temperatures went down 20ish degrees to an autumn seasonal 60 degrees. It was also predicting rain and I wasn’t mad about that either. I was so excited to get back to Milan for my 3rd visit in three years.
Milan wasn’t on my list of cities to explore when I came to Italy for the very first time in October 2021. I didn’t have too long of a list of possibilities back then as I was just letting it unfold for me nevertheless Milan was not on it. But while planning my Italy excursion in September 2021, a friend from Japan was going to be in the vicinity of Italy that November and suggested we spend a few days together in Milan.
Her specific words were “Don’t sleep on Milan”.
I like that turn of phrase.
She made some suggestions on logistics including that we should find an apartment in the Isola neighborhood and honestly I was happy to defer to her experience to find us a good spot.
Due to a series of circumstances, my friend had to leave Italy before our trip. I had my plane ticket from Bari to Milan secured and of course, our apartment was booked and paid for so it was an easy choice to explore Milan solo. Milan was an in-between visit while transitioning from a month in Puglia to 2 months in Florence (first time for both places). While I was sad my friend couldn’t join, her absence had me deep-diving into what I could/should do while I was there, pushing me, as I had very little intel on Milan and had been thinking she would guide our trip.
Well, I must say I LOVED my solo visit to Milan and have made it a yearly tradition since.
Milan is known for many things but I think from an outsider's perspective it is known for fashion, finance, and being more of a “big city” perhaps without the rustic charm or the buoyant landmarks of other big or well-known cities in Italy.
When I knew that I would be going to Milan, for 3 nights/4 days, alone, I went into research mode. The first thing I did was watch the Milan episode of Stanley Tucci’s ‘Searching for Italy’. Honestly, this is a great, great show with really stellar recommendations and features incredible locals of each region. If you haven’t watched it I highly recommend it. While watching the Milano episode, I discovered that one of the restaurants he visits, Ratana, was a mere 10-minute walk from my apartment in Isola so I booked a reservation promptly.
The other thing I did right away was look on Airbnb Experiences for, well experiences in Milan. A few caught my eye but one really stood out: Walking Tour with a Journalist by Ruth.
Here is an excerpt from her Airbnb description:
“I know the city’s secret corners, best restaurants, and coolest spots. Let me tell you the history, explain the architecture, and give you the stories of this magical city, all in a healthy 2.5 km walking tour.”
I was taken by Ruth’s full description, her personal bio, and the few reviews I read so I booked it for the day after I arrived. When I say that I wouldn’t really know anything about Milan, it’s history, the cool spots I’ve become obsessed with without Ruth it is an understatement. We had such a wonderful day! I learned so much about Milan, very interesting history, explored and walked for over 3 hours and the experience informed the next fantastic two days I had there.
The combination of my apartment, charming neighborhood, dining at Ratana, and the experience with Ruth has made Milan an absolute necessity for me every year since. The food, the art, the fashion, stunning parks and natural areas, and the warmth of the people make Milan a must-visit dear readers.
So, here are the places I haunt when I visit and links to my great apartments:
Isola - Graffiti-covered Isola is a hip enclave of tiny streets crammed with a quirky mix of fashion boutiques, organic food shops, and thrift stores. Cozy family-run trattorias sit next to cool cafes in leafy courtyards, and dive bars in former warehouses attract bikers and students. Weekend flea markets surround the Renaissance church of Santa Maria alla Fontana, known for its frescoed arcades. It is also quite elegant featuring the Bosco Verticale, which is my favorite set of modern buildings.
Apartments -
Isola - my first apartment was a two-bedroom and 2-bath as it was supposed to be shared and blew me away with the 3 balconies with incredible views and the big kitchen. The location is fantastic: there is a full street market right across the street on the weekend. I also very much enjoyed how cozy it was with the fireplace on one of the rainy nights I recovered from walking 16 miles! Lots to see in Milan.
Last year when I was booking my transition from Copenhagen and arranging my stay in Milan I found the most gorgeous apartment in Chinatown. It was a little bit further afield from Ratana (which is my measuring stick so to speak: how far a walk from Ratana) but totally worth the extra steps! My host was so kind and charming and really helpful - he has painstakingly remodeled this apartment, which was his grandfathers. Those tiles are original and even more incredible in person. The apartment is also located right above a famous Enoteca, Cantine Isola 1896, which is fantastic. It is a great spot on an excellent street.
My apartment this year was a mere 11-minute walk to Ratana and in a great location for the train, Isola, Chinatown, and getting to all my favorite places on the Corso Como. The apartment is dreamy and my host superb. Highly recommend. My favorite coffee and pastry spot, Prici, is a 7-minute walk. There is an excellent Enoteca right next door as well - bonus.
Ratana - a Michelin Guide restaurant, it was Stanley Tucci’s conversation with Chef Cesare Battisti on ‘Searching for Italy’ that had me bookmarking it for a place for dinner in 2021. I had such an epic experience sitting at the bar and having excellent food and conversation with the staff that it has become a ‘must-visit’ every time I go to Milan. The tasting menu is the way to go. The staff is just as incredible as the food. One of my favorites in the world.
Ruth’s Experience - I would not have known, well really anything great, without having met Ruth and going on an informative, delightful long walk with her and Spanky, her sweet pup. We had pastries and coffee and talked and took photos. (Almost) Everything I absolutely love about Milan is because of Ruth. Highly recommend booking a tour with her.
Other things of note: Chinatown - very vibrant and lively
the Monumental Cemetery - I love cemeteries and this is a do not miss. Lots of impressive people with substantial memorials
Corso Como - shopping and people watching and some excellent coffee spots and restaurants
Sempione Park - a stunning park with many incredible statues, monuments, hidden spaces, and art. It’s truly a lovely nature spot in the city and exploring the park can take more than one day. There are lots of dogs (bonus for me, always!), couples walking arm and arm, and musicians busking. Ruth, Spanky, and I spent quite some time here and I cannot recommend it more.
Triennale Museum - a wonderful museum. I was lucky enough to see a curation of Italian design that was so inspiring during my visit. One thing I am sad to report is the Terrazzo, on the rooftop, where I had a delicious spritz and Aperitivo platter with the most incredible view, is currently closed for renovations. Keep an eye on it if you are going to Milan as the rooftop restaurant and deck is quite special. Another recommendation from Ruth!
I wrote about my number 1 travel tip for 2023 here on substack but will stress here that Airbnb Experiences is an incredible resource for once-in-a-lifetime travel experiences. I have had many now and Ruth’s is at the top of my list. I would not have known about 95% of the things I fell in love with in Milan if it hadn’t been for my epic day with Ruth (and her charming dog, Spanky!). The Duomo is the only thing I would have likely discovered on my own. Don’t miss the Milano Duomo. It is so impressive. It took 600 years to complete. We have no idea what patience is today. Honestly.
Campari at the Galleria Vittoria - one of the oldest shopping malls, it is quite beautiful and full of fancy shops but I like grabbing a spritz and snack at Campari: their little patio has a perfect Duomo view.
Pastries: you can hardly go wrong in Italy with a delicious pastry and coffee but I have a must for Milan:
PRINCI - just go. So incredibly delicious
Other places of note:
Check out the Navigli - the famous canal district where Aperitivo was born! My day with Ruth & Spanky ended here and there are many great restaurants to check out. Stanley Tucci also visits here on his show and recommends places.
Whew!
There you go. There is a lot to explore in Milan and I barely touched on it here but these are excellent spots, activities, wanders, experiences to get you acquainted and dare I say fall in love?
Have you been to Milan? What am I missing?
Thank you, as always, for reading and being here. If you liked this post, would you share it with friends?
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Until next time (whispering) ciao, ciao, ciao
I think of myself as being very anti-tour, but I also know from experience (and sometimes that was a negative experience) that the best way to get to know a foreign city is with someone who already knows and loves it. If you don't already know that person, how do you find them? A tour... It never occurred to me to look on Airbnb for this kind of person, and I love that idea! Keeping it in my back pocket now.