Hot Italian Summer
Part 1: My Venice Diaries - including links to apartments, experiences, food and wine
In the last week, I’ve read in multiple spaces (newsletters, magazines, social media) that everyone is going to Italy this summer. Having talked with a few people casually about their summer plans, I will say that two out of the five said they were planning a July/August trip to Italy this year.
Oof. That sounds kind of terrible to me. Long lines, heat, crowds at all the beautiful, historic spots…I much prefer shoulder and off-season to wander peacefully, drop into almost any restaurant and cafe with a short or no wait, and more intimate groups for local experiences (or having them to myself!).
However, I am not here to change anyone’s mind on the timing of their hot Italia visit but I want to make sure to offer my recommendations for a few locations in Italy and to offer other really excellent resources to make the most of your trips, no matter when you choose to visit.
So, for today's post, you will find my absolute favorites from my recent trip to Venice and all the links. Also noted are the folks I consistently resource for incredible travel experiences and insights into Italy and beyond. These people are the best.
Part 2 of ‘Hot Italian Summer’ will feature an extended Florence list and Airbnb experiences; Bologna and Milan notes, apartments, experiences, and food, of course.
So, let’s go with Venice.
I didn’t even begin to scratch the surface on all the epic-ness of Venice but babes it deserves its hype.
Venice’s magical, haunting (and haunted) floating city is very special. The quiet alone (no cars!) is something to soak in as you walk through the city, especially at night. Just taking the Vaporetto from the train station to my neighborhood where my apartment was located was an incredible experience, made more dream-like by the December rain and mist. I don’t think Venice is a hard sell but I have had some people ask “But is it worth it?”
My answer is absolutely yes.
While my last December visit was just 4-nights I had an incredibly rich experience.
One of my “go-to” people for Italian experiences is Gillian Longworth, of Gillian Knows Best on Substack. I originally connected with Gillian in 2021 on Instagram and she was invaluable to me during my long weekend visit to Rome that year. I highly recommend both her Insta and Substack to connect with and learn from her. I have a list going from several of her recent posts for my next Italian adventure.
Planning my stay and experiences in Venice, which was Sunday through Thursday, [avoid weekends if you can], I put together my itinerary between the following:
Stanley Tucci’s ‘Searching for Italy’
Yolo Journal: Yolanda Edwards Substack (another travel expert that I turn to regularly Yolanda is former creative director for Conde Nast Traveler and has an incredible Substack and print magazine that covers the world)
First on my list of things to nail down was accommodation: My dreamy apartment, which I booked on Airbnb, was even better than the stunning listing. I navigate Airbnb through multiple checkpoints and dedicate a post about my own personal process soon. My Venice apartment exceeded my expectations in location, style, my lovely host, and VIEWS. Well, just see below.
Food and Wine:
MUST: book a walking food tour
My Venice food tour, hosted by Luisa - exceeded my (high) expectations. I have had so many good food tours at this point that it is hard to not have high expectations and I haven’t been disappointed. One of the stops was so delicious and special and such a “locals” spot that I went back twice over the following two days. I spent my solo time visits meeting locals and talking with the lovely staff and visitors (who heard me speaking English) while enjoying rosé bubbles and the very best ciccheti, which are very Venetian snacks to be enjoyed at all hours, washed down with wine or spritz.
Speaking of Spritz, until this food tour in Venice, I had no idea that there are different spritz mixers by region. Aperol and Campari are readily available in lots of big Italian cities but I learned the history of these mixers and most importantly discovered the Select Spritz of Venice. The day after my tour, it was a sunny winters day that was almost balmy and I took a spot overlooking the water, with the grand canal in the distance, and felt like a local, sipping on my Select Spritz and enjoying a bag of chips while the gondolas and water taxis bobbed and drifted by.
About food tours: I highly recommend doing a food tour in any and every major or food-focused city you visit if you can source them. There are several different kinds of tours in cities like Bologna, London, Lisbon - you can do a bike tour or a walking tour or one that takes you to multiple locations by car. If you are visiting a walkable city, look for a walking food tour. Honestly, these are some of the best experiences I have had for getting my bearings in a city, seeing some wonderful sites, eating and drinking at places I likely would never find on my own, and taking me past places I would bookmark for later to explore on my own. I have also found my hosts/guides to be excellent resources for questions about other things to do. My hosts have generously provided me lists, contacts, and at times reservations! The food tour I did in Bologna in December 2021 was so epic, I recreated it for my son and a friend who visited me during my recent Italy stay. I would have booked Benedetta in Bologna again but she was fully committed (no surprise) so I took it upon myself to share all the wonder.
Another kind of walking tour - SPOOKY
One of the very first things I found on Airbnb Experiences when I started planning my 2022 Italy stay of 2 months was the Ghost Tour in Venice. It was a must for me. I bookmarked it months in advance and planned my trip around its availability. It did not disappoint. What a way to experience this haunting, quiet city: walking through the empty Campos while being led by a historian telling grisly ghost stories! The night I went on my tour was clear and cold, deadly quiet, with a million stars lighting up over the lagoons, and all I will say is my host is a master storyteller who understands pacing impeccably.
And, here is a short list for Venice of restaurants, bars, markets, and Cicchetti spots, of course:
Osteria Giorgione Da Masa - local staple of delicious Venetian dishes - lunch/dinner
Nevodi - I was starving when I finally arrived at my apartment after taking the train, then a long water taxi ride, to my apartment in the “locals” neighborhood near the Giardini della Marinaressa. I went in search of cod* and found it. The yummiest cod and wine and best people. These are truly my people. I ate here multiple times as well. *Cod is a must when visiting Venice.
A note about the bread at Nevodi. Incredibly delicious, they couldn’t find a bread they like locally so they started their own bakery across the street. The bread is divine. Bread and Cod (and get the Grappa made from seaweed from the Venetian lagoons at the end of your meal - chefs kiss).
Cantina de Mori - this is the wonderful, legendary locals hangout. Serving folks delicious cicchetti since 1462, there is separate locals entrance. No tables, lively, to die for. See my food photos above. Again - I would have never known about this if I hadn’t done the food tour. And it is a do not miss, go as often as you can for me!
Acqua e Mais - a perfect, wonderful spot for cicchetti and spritz (this is where I learned about Select spritz- I am a fan)
Vino Vero - a perfect wine bar, featuring natural wines. Very hip but also welcoming. You will find all the cool kids of Venice here but it's not intimidating at all.
Pasticceria Bonifacio - tiramisu - must. MUST. This is the birthplace after all.
Campo de la Pescaria - the famous fish market. This is life in Venice. You must go visit even if you don’t want to buy (but I recommend you do!). The heartbeat of Venice.
Hot Venice Tip: walk for the majority of your visit. You can walk across Venice in 45 minutes and it is the best way to experience the city. Of course, take a taxi, a waterbus, a gondola ride but if you are staying, get lost in the city and soak it all up. You won’t be sorry.
This is my Venice list, my friends. If you do go in the summer madness, my other tips would be the following:
Make reservations (if you can) as far in advance as possible. Book the experiences and tours and restaurants ASAP.
Be ok with (and prepare yourself) for waiting to get into the great places, like Cantina de Mori - it is very small. I would go early as you can. I had my first cicchetti and wine there at 11 am!
Visit during the week. Skip the weekend. Just trust me. I’m not saying it will be quiet during the week in the summer but it might be less hectic.
Vaporetto lines in summer 2022 were HOURS long. Patience, and politeness, are key.
There is so much MORE to see and do and experience in Venice. I really want to explore the surrounding islands and spend more time on boats and go to the incredible art exhibitions that take place April-November, many of them outside. So much. I can’t wait to go back.
Let me know what I’m missing! What do you absolutely love in or around Venice? I would love to add to my ever-growing list.
Where are you heading this summer?
I would be happy to help with your travel plans if I can. Send me note if you have questions and let’s hop on a zoom.
Ciao, Ciao for now my friends.
Part 2 of Hot Italian Summer will be up in the next couple of weeks. Stay tuned.
Thank you so much for the mention! This is amazing Venice information.