Hot Italian Summer: Rome Edition
Don't miss the Eternal City
Hey Friends,
It is hot. I know this can be a triggering statement but it is HOT in many parts of the world.
Including Italy.
So, I’m starting this post with a little “mom-ing” and am going to remind you to plan for the heat as you think about transportation, long lines, WATER, and the need to hydrate as you explore and just being kind to everyone you encounter. Especially the folks in hospitality and service. Summer season is overwhelming at best and patience is required. Ok - I’m done with that!
Today’s post is about ROME.
Roma - the Eternal City.
Rome is called the Eternal City because ancient Romans believed that no matter how many empires rose and fell, Rome would last forever.
Rome is a feeling and vibe unique to itself, unlike any other place I’ve visited in Italy.
Italians built things to last. Because of that commitment, we get to step into the past and experience, at least a little, of what it must have been like in ancient times, exploring these glorious artifacts.
If you are one of the many flocking to Italy this summer, or anytime, I would say Don’t Skip Rome! However, the best time to visit Rome, according to many locals, is during January post-holidays. The temperatures are cool but not cold and can be quite sunny and sparsely populated - the best of all worlds.
I actually visited Rome on my first 90-day trip to Italy, in 2021-2022, during the week between Christmas and New Year's Eve. During that visit, I spent a month in Puglia first (which I will be writing about soon) and then I based myself for the rest of my stay in Florence. I knew that I would be taking short trips to other cities and Rome was definitely on the list. I almost missed Rome because Covid spiked during that winter, and I was a little hesitant but in the end, I went as safely as I could (triple masks on public transportation and distancing as much as possible) and I’m so glad I did.
Rome is dazzling.
While tourism was light during the winter of 2021, Rome was much busier than Florence, where I was based. I was surprised by the crowds, even though when I see Rome on social media now I feel like I basically had it to myself.
The museum-like quality of just walking the neighborhoods of central Rome could be enough (honestly!). It seemed like around every corner was some major site just casually there to take in and wander through, respectfully of course.
I also recommend walking at night because the way these areas are lit makes them even more mysterious and wonderful.
Trevi Fountain! The Colosseum! The Pantheon! Sistine Chapel!
Just to name a few of the most famous.
Then there is the food, the wine, the aperitivos, the people - it’s all a vibe and a good one.
But there is a LOT to see in Rome, so where, how do you begin?
I really recommend subscribing to my “secret to a successful visit to Rome” - Gillian Longworth’s wonderful substack and instagram “Gillian Knows Best”.
I first discovered Gillian on Instagram in the summer of 2021, when I was thinking of going to Italy. Her account is really FANTASTIC. I took copious notes just from her stories and grid of where I might want to stay, eat, and visit. Since then we have corresponded online and she is always so gracious when I have any questions, even about other areas of Italy.
You really will do well planning your visits by consulting her substack as it will give you all the great tips for the “big places” and also all the things that you should not miss that aren’t touristy, which is always my personal goal.
For my visit in December 2021, I put together 85% of my itinerary through Gillian and 15% through Stanley Tucci ‘Searching for Italy’ Rome episode (if you read my Italy posts you know my love for this man and the show). I was not at all disappointed. My visit was a fantastic, if too brief, 4 nights.
I will put together my short list of notes and recommendations below but Gillian is the go-to.
BONUS for Pied Á Terre Life Readers:
For this post, I reached out to Gillian to ask her for her own “Hot Tip” to provide here and she, as always, was graciously game to provide generous input and this is so good for summer into early autumn:
“My hot tip for Roman summer travel is to go to the beach. It's an easy train ride away. You can combine a beach day with a morning at Ostia Antica or a quick visit to the Anzio BeachHead museum. Then find a beach club and have a long lunch, a swim, and a nap. You can be back in Rome for a late dinner. In Ostia I like La Vecchia Pineta and in Anzio I go to Il Baretto."
Doesn’t that sound dreamy?? There really is nothing better than a long Italian lunch by the sea.
A big, big thank you to Gillian for contributing this hot tip. It sounds like the perfect, quick respite from the heat of Rome this summer that you can likely fit in during your visit.
I will add a thought here for your travels: I don’t recommend trying to “do it all”. I think it’s best to go into your visit to an epic place such as Rome (or Italy in general) with the intent to enjoy your visit and don’t get stuck in being rigid in what you must cross off your list. I would pick one or two things that are non-negotiable for you, do those, and then let the rest unfold as it will.
Here is my [very] short list and my hot tip for Rome:
For current restaurants and the most up-to-date intel, Gillian is your go-to!
After reading up on neighborhoods and deciding my plans and what I must do during my 4-nights in Rome, I decided to book my apartment in the Trastevere neighborhood, which is wonderful. I could easily walk from my front door to groceries, excellent coffee and pastries, the river, and beyond. I actually walked everywhere from this location while I was in Rome, with the exception of going to and from the train station.
My apartment, which I booked on Airbnb, was quite nice and roomy with two bedrooms and 2 baths and a giant living room and kitchen. Linked below.
A MUST: Bar San Calisto - Trastevere - featured on Stanley’s episode, I met the delightful owner the morning I went and he was darling. You must have this pastry. Order the Maritozzo - Don’t question, just do it.
YOU MUST. I thought I wouldn’t finish it but it is a conundrum because it is so light and fresh that I gobbled it up. Delicious. Bar San Calisto is also a great place to hang on the patio with a beer and soak up all the local energy. Very popular.
Campo de’Fiori - one of the famous main squares in Rome, there is a wonderful market during the day where you can get a Moka Pot (it is where I bought mine!), vegetables, cheese, olive oil and more. In the evening, sit outside and have a spritz and soak up the energy.
I’m not going to list out all the usual suspects (noted above with exclamation points!) but let me just say they did not disappoint.
HOT TIP: Trevi Fountain - I went to the fountain one afternoon and it was packed. Even during Covid times. I decided on my last morning to get up at 6:30 am and walk over (about 20 mins from my apartment). It was wonderful to walk through the city as the sun was rising and to get to the fountain and have it [almost] all to myself. It really is a beautiful place.
Don’t miss: Basilica Papale di Santa Maria Maggiore - stunning. There is no such thing in Italy as “if you’ve seen one church, you’ve seen them all”. No.
Basilica of Santa Maria Trastevere
Walking the river be sure to look up to see the parrots and love birds of Roma.
Actually always look up - try to stay off your phone otherwise you will likely miss the magic that awaits around every corner.
Other good resources: here are a few other excellent resources for Rome travels and travel in general:
Yolo Journal - Yolanda Edwards
LAST THING: I just discovered this excellent app to guide you to the fountains of Rome where you can get delicious, cold water. Bring your reusable bottle (no plastic!) and fill up often. Stay hydrated to fully enjoy your time.
Ciao ciao my friends.
Thank you so much for these incredibly kind words. I look forward to seeing you in Rome or Venice soon!