Local Voyager
Conversations with tasteful locals
Hello and welcome to my new feature - Local Voyager: Conversations with tasteful local friends.
Some of my very best experiences while traveling come from having conversations with amazing locals. I have been directed to places, experiences, and people I would have never known about otherwise.
My substack is all about local, intimate, unique experiences. I totally get that folks travel to see well-known and beloved places (London Bridge, the Empire State Building, the Santa Maria del Fiore Cathedral in Florence - you get it) and that is great but including real local intel on what’s so special about their city, village, country can lead to once-in-a-lifetime experiences that are usually off the beaten path.
Personally, I love to plan - I’m a planner - so I always have a list going from multiple resources but I am also keen to know what locals feel is so cool, delicious, and special about the places they call home.
And I’m completely willing to change my best-laid plans for a great recommendation.
So here is my first conversation with a very tasteful local, the excellent Graeme Sutherland, whom I met on my 4th day in Edinburgh last month, as I was walking off severe jet lag, and saw his bonnie blue logo for Good Brothers Wine Bar & Bottle Shop and just had to pop in. This led to my meeting Graeme himself and having a lively conversation about wine, food, travel, whiskey, and more, immediately chatting away like old friends. He generously sat down with me a week later to answer these questions and I now have several new places on MY list of must-visit spots in Scotland.
Enjoy.
WHO: Graeme Sutherland - Owner: Good Brothers Wine Bar & Bottle Shop and WineKraft
Graeme is perfectly suited for the wine hospitality businesses he owns, as he is outgoing, warm, attentive, inclusive, and full of enthusiasm for what he does. I knew within 5 minutes that I would love for him to be the very first person for this new feature here on Pied À Terre Life, as he is so warm and full of excellent intel.
A little background: From Edinburgh - born and bred - Graeme started his wine career working for Louis Jadot, one of the most trusted and revered wine houses in Burgundy, France, simply by asking a question. Following a 1-year internship he then spent time “bumming around the world” working in wine, in different capacities, and in different regions. A great way to learn a lot about wines of the world, cultivating personal tastes, and diving into the process of making and distributing wine.
After meeting and marrying his wife they lived in Oxford, UK before returning to Edinburgh, which they and their children have called home happily for the last 9 years.
Below is our Q&A (with a few added notes from me)
Q: Why did you start your biz?
A: Totally fortuitous how Graham started in the wine biz…landing a Louis Jadot 1 year apprenticeship that came about kind of by accident after attending a tasting and asking a key member of staff at Louis Jadot if he might have a job for a young guy willing to work hard.
And here’s the thing we both agreed on wholeheartedly, who cares if they say no? The answer is always no if you don’t ask for what you want.
That job led to Graeme traveling the world, working in wine, and learning multiple facets of the business before landing back in UK. He and his family have been back in Edinburgh for 9 years now, with Graeme launching and running his two wine focused businesses.
Q: Who do you serve?
A: Being the owner of two businesses, he focuses on serving his staff and creating community. Graeme told me it is very important to him that he creates a good environment for both his staff and the community who support him.
Note from Michele: I loved this so much and agree that when you make your staff a priority (their well-being, education, culture) it serves your community, and that shines through at Good Brothers.
Q: What is your personal favorite thing about Edinburgh/Scotland?
A: Graeme took a few minutes with this one as there is so much to love and this is the response: “The very best thing is sitting on St. Andrews beach on mid-summers day (summer solstice) watching the sun come up and taking a swim.”
Sounds dreamy.
Q: 2 favorite places to eat in Edinburgh?
Note from Michele: I always have a list going of restaurants and wine bars but am very keen to add to it so this is one of my favorite questions! I did not know either of these places before chatting with Graeme.
A: Noto - located in New Town on Thistle Street - a small independent restaurant that features small plates and fine dining; focusing on food for sharing, small wine producers, and inventive cocktails. Michelin Bib Gourmand.
Sabzi - Indian Street Food - BYOB - “really amazing local family” - Sabzi translates to hot dish and focuses on local produce and products with an often changing menu. Located on Ferry Street in Edinburgh.
2 favorite places to drink in Edinburgh?
A: The Townhouse at Gleneagles (Graeme is a member - members only) Superb Sundowners on the rooftop with the most incredible views in the city.
Note from Michele: Non-members can visit the Spence at Gleneagles, which has a pretty awesome bar and dining room - I went there myself and loved it. Beautiful space and a great vibe. The food and drink were excellent.
The Last Word - cocktails - whiskey based - St. Stephen St in Stockbridge, Edinburgh - super cozy spot - perfect for the upcoming winter weather!
Bonus spot:
Bramble - among the top 50 bars in the world - on Queen St. in Edinburgh - worth the effort to find it as it can be a little challenging.
Q: What are your Favorite (alcoholic) drinks (not wine)?
A: Graeme has a Sunday night ritual relaxing with an Eagle Rare Bourbon - enjoying the smoothness of the sipping. Another favorite: Spanish vermouth served over ice with a bit of soda and orange for something refreshing, especially good for summer.
Q: Musts for Coffee? Graeme narrowed it down to his top 3
Note from Michele: I’m quite the coffee nut myself and am always keeping a list of coffee places to visit in various cities. Edinburgh has quite a hopping coffee scene so of course I need Graeme to weigh in.
A: Cairngorm Coffee in the West End (always packed whenever I walked by)
Wellington Coffee - a cozy below-stairs coffee shop on George St.
Artisan Roast - (I love this place - delicious coffee) Stockbridge, Edinburgh (3 locations)
Q: What are your Sundays Like?
Note from Michele: I am a big fan of the spirit of Sundays - a day to slow down, listen to music, cook, walk, read - whatever lifts you up and regenerates your spirit. I’m always keen to hear what others do on Sundays.
A: if Graham is working early in the day, as Good Brothers are open 7 days, the kids will come to Good Brothers with newspapers and books and they will spend time there together, the children reading and Graeme taking care of business.
His brothers and mum are in Edinburgh and Sundays can be a family affair: going to Church with his wife, kids, and extended family followed by taking a good walk a long lunch, and puttering around the house - ending with a good Sunday roast.
Note from Michele: Sunday Roast is big in the UK and I’m here for it. I asked Graeme about not-at-home-Sunday Roasts spots as part of Sunday Things.
Sunday roast out in Edinburgh: the Broughton for good, cozy food and drink.
Special Sunday Roast: Bonnie Badger (which has a really beautiful setting) is in East Lothian’s seaside village of Gullane (30 mins outside of Edinburgh) Proud holders of a Michelin Guide Bib Gourmand and 5 AA Gold Stars, The Bonnie Badger presents a enviable range of dining options across restaurant The Stables, Broc Bar, The Garden Room and The Garden, with each menu evoking a ‘From Nature to Plate’ philosophy.
Q: What is your DO NOT MISS if you are visiting Edinburgh
A: Graeme: “Everyone goes to Castle, which yes definitely go - everyone goes to Arthurs Seat, also yes but do not miss Calton Hill.”
Note from Michele: nature in Edinburgh is one of my favorite things about it - parks, rivers (burns), and long trails through the woods from Stockbridge to Leith and Calton Hill is not to be missed. Stunning with incredible views - I recommend taking a picnic and a book and soaking it all up.
Q: Where is a secret place in Scotland to go if you can?
A: Monachyle Mohr - Not an easy day trip but absolutely WORTH it. Also, recommend making a few days getaway if you can.
Monachyle Moor is a boutique loch side hotel at the foot of stunning Scottish mountains. Described as a cool and sophisticated place to stay, an award-winning restaurant, a restorative location and “mhor” besides.
Mhor means “great” in Scottish.
Michele: I am IN!
Q: What will people be surprised to learn about Edinburgh?
A: Graeme: “That it is 100% walkable - walking is the best way to experience the city because there is so much beauty to see and wonderful places to discover.”
Go visit Graeme and his excellent team at Good Brothers Wine Bar: He’s wonderful, the staff is amazing so friendly and knowledgable, the atmosphere is stylish and cozy and the food and wine are exceptional. Everything you want and need.
Big thanks to Graeme for his time and all this awesome intel.
Visiting Edinburgh? Local?
Be sure to check out Good Brothers and the following:
Local? Insider Club - 25% off all purchases
I can’t wait to spend more time at Good Brothers on my next stay in Edinburgh - thinking chilly winter nights with a good glass of wine and excellent vibes and conversations.
Inspired to visit? Planning a trip to Edinburgh or Scotland? Send me a message and let me know any questions or share your plans! I love to hear where you are headed.
Thank you so much for being here and supporting Pied À Terre Life.