Stunning Oban
and an evening at SKUA in Edinburgh
Hi Friends,
Do you subscribe to the ideology that if you “hear” something three times, (or however many times it resonates with you) you need to act on it? As in, you hear about hot yoga while waiting in line at the grocery store and then on the tube or at your kids’ soccer game and you think hmmm, maybe I should check out hot yoga?
No? Do I sound nutty?
That’s cool.
Well, I subscribe to this way of the universe presenting me with things that might surprise and delight me and that fully showed itself when it came to Oban, Scotland.
Before I had even been in Edinburgh for 8 hours two different people mentioned the west coast of Scotland and the village of Oban as a place I might be interested in.
By the third day, I had heard about Oban from a third source and I was in full planning mode.
Another thing I fully subscribe to in life, and in travel, is that if something falls together easily, it is also meant for me. And my plan for a few days in Oban fell together pretty easily.
My very first conversation about Oban occurred with a lovely gentleman who had to come to my flat to do a survey on my first afternoon there. As I was unpacking, he was taking photos and we fell into easy conversation about my trip and he gave me all sorts of verbal visuals of the wild beauty of the west coast of Scotland and the isles adjacent to Oban. He also gave me really great practical info about getting the train to Glasgow from Edinburgh and transferring to a train to Oban and the beauty of the ride.
I adore trains.
I love taking trains and watching the scenery go by like a vivid movie.
As I mentioned above, things fell into place rather easily. I booked my trains intending to arrive mid-afternoon. The train from Glasgow to Oban makes several stops but I didn’t mind it at all, and it took 3 hours to get there. Passing through gorgeous views of Loch Lomond, castles, statement homes, and bucolic villages sped by quickly.
Oban is a quaint and charming seaside village that seems pretty tiny but I still thought I would grab a cab from the train station to my apartment. However Google Maps told me I was a 9-minute walk from the station to my front door, so I walked. Easy!
Honestly, my apartment was such a great location.
I found a great Airbnb with excellent reviews and honestly, it was way better in person. In an unassuming apartment building on a residential street, I climbed a set of stairs to my door and upon entering felt so very comfortable. The 1-bedroom flat was SPOTLESSLY clean and the hosts had so obviously thought carefully about the guest's experience. There was coffee and milk and some Scottish biscuits for me. Delightful. I messaged my hosts my pleasure and asked for recommendations for dinner and they immediately responded with many excellent options not only for dinner but for coffee, breakfast, lunch, whiskey, and more.
I booked a table at my hosts’ highest recommendation, EE-USK, the top seafood restaurant for an early table. I was rewarded with the most wonderful view of the harbor and ferries and the island of Kerrara, which is just across the way. My dinner was absolutely DELICIOUS and they have a nice wine list. Highly recommend.
After my luscious dinner, I walked around the village a bit, as a soft rain came and went, and enjoyed the lights on the harbor and the boats bobbing in the tide.
The next day I opted for a boat ride around Kerrara and the harbor with Argyll Sea Tours. I originally was signed up for a longer experience but the ocean was quite choppy so they couldn’t take us that far out. This was fine because our ride was absolutely stunning and the caption shared lots of historic information with me as we made our way around.
I took a very long walk when I returned, along the water, and spotted incredible sea birds, many large herons, and a sea lion. I took a seat overlooking what seemed to be the gateway to the larger islands and had a rainbow materialize. So special.
Unfortunately, that night I came down with a nasty cold and fever and had to cancel my trip to Isle of Mull the next day. This was very disappointing to me as I had so been looking forward to my excursion but taking care of health (and not exposing others) comes first. I cozied up in my flat and read books and napped and it was very comfortable and the best I could do.
The next day I felt a bit better for my return travel to Edinburgh and was able to enjoy a wonderful seat all to myself, watching the glorious scenery of burns, Munros, and lochs, dotted with sheep and Coos, pass by.
My trip was too short and I plan to visit again on a future trip to Scotland. But I will tell you, my list is growing SO LONG of places to explore. I met a lovely couple while dining at EE-USK and they share their recent experience on the Orkney Islands way above the tip-top of Scotland. My lovely acupuncturist, Lisa Lee, also had recently been to the Hebrides, which are also on my list. I really wish I could have made the Isle of Skye happen on this visit - but it might need its own trip. And my friend Jodi, is from Aberdeen, which I also need to get to. So much beauty and history to explore!
If you are in Edinburgh for a good visit, you could pop up to Oban for 2-nights and make a good quick trip but likely it would be ideal to stay at least 3-4 nights to explore Kerrara, Lismore, and Mull. A good person to follow is the Chaotic Scot on instagram as she has some good intel on traveling around Scotland, especially if on a budget.
So, take it slow. While you’re on the train, keep your gaze out the window (instead of on your phone) and soak up all the beauty. Get a bit lost and let the howling winds envelop you. Nature is a gift to be enjoyed often. (Maybe I sound a bit preachy but I feel pretty passionately about this!)
Links for Oban:
EE-USK - top-rated seafood restaurant with an excellent wine list located right on the water
COAST - recommended by three separate locals as their favorite restaurant - sorry to have missed it
OBAN WHISKEY & FINE WINES - an excellent spot to discover and purchase whiskey and wine
HINBA COFFEE - breakfast and great coffee
ARGYLL SEA TOURS - a delightful little boat with a wonderful captain, blankets and storytelling.
IF I WASN’T STAYING AT AIRBNB…. I would have stayed at the very lovely Witchwood House. Facing the sea and Kerrara.
EDINBURGH - FINE FOOD
AN EVENING AT SKUA
I was super happy that I had 5 days of diminishing symptoms before having a “date” with my friend Jodi in Edinburgh. I had been looking forward to our ladies night and was glad I could keep it as I was excited for excellent conversation and food.
Jodi, who has the great shop MODM, on St. Stephens Street in Stockbridge, had recommended we go to SKUA, which is new this year to the neighborhood. Located just a few doors down from Jodi’s shop and less than 10-minute walk from my flat, it’s a cozy spot below stairs perfect for a chilly autumn evening.
The vibe really reminds me of the Hygge found in Copenhagen. A cozy room painted black, with candles glowing at every table, a black fireplace filled with fat white candle pillars, and a wonderful intimacy, it is a place that begs for hours of excellent conversation, wine, and food.
Which is exactly what we enjoyed that evening.
Jodi recommended we try one of each of the starters (see the menu below) and I thought this a perfect way to go. We had bubbles, a delicious biological white from Sicily, and a glass of Austrian red. We were the first to arrive and almost the last to leave, enjoying our chat and food in equal measure. Signs of a wonderful evening, for certain.
There are a lot of really good restaurants and wine bars in Edinburgh. I have a lot of locals say to me “Edinburgh really isn’t known as a foodie destination BUT…” and I think it likely will be and should be.
SKUA is a great addition to Edinburgh’s food scene. I only wish I had a wee bit more time to revisit and have the dish I’m still dreaming of:
Beetroot - Almond Mousse - Walnut Dust - Greens
So - when is your trip to Scotland? Any plans yet?
Hit me up with your itinerary or any questions you have for me.
Chasing Autumn continues in Italy…..stay tuned.
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