This Week In Edinburgh
Beauty and Magic and Nature Spaces
Hi Friends,
This last week in Edinburgh has been pretty lovely. Initially, I had some unexpected jet lag issues and some difficulty adjusting to the time, which I have rarely had, but I finally am on Scotland time and sleeping like a rock star once again.
Good sleep = energy for explorations so it’s been a good several days.
Landing in Edinburgh immediately felt like home to me. I arrived on a sunny early autumnal day, with temps in the low 60s, which was just perfect for me. I was able to access my flat early, which I so appreciated, and let me tell you it was even more delightful and dreamy than on the website. I booked my flat with a local Edinburgh company, Dickins Homes, who have been in business for over 25 years here, letting self-catering apartments. I added a video of my apartment on my last post, which you can see here. The location in Stockbridge, where I stayed this past winter, is really perfect for me: I can easily walk to Old Town, where the castle, university, and Princes Street Gardens, are located but I am in a more “locals” part of the city, and a charming area that includes Dean’s Village, Walk of Leith and the Botanical Gardens.
The city is just as wonderful as when I was here in the winter. Maybe even a bit more lovely as it is bursting with green (there is a lot of foliage in the city of Edinburgh with the green spaces, parks, front stoops, and courtyards bursting with potted plants and trees and ivy). Stately stone row houses, winding cobblestoned streets, rivers (or burns), softly glowing tall windows in the evening - I love to wander every time of day and discover new things.
LAST WEEKS HIGHLIGHTS
One of my favorite discoveries on my winter visit was TREEN, and the lovely Cat Anderson-Owner. Located on one of my favorite streets in Stockbridge, this sustainable fashion shop is more than just retail, it feels like a community. I spent many a time chatting with the folks here, who became friends and scored a couple of very lovely items as well - including my favorite short wellies, made from recycled materials. TREEN was having an event the evening I arrived from the US and I rallied my energy to walk the 7 minutes from my flat to say hello. I so appreciated the warm welcome and can’t wait to visit again.
There has been an addition to my neighborhood since I left in March and to say it is POPULAR is an understatement.
Lanaan is a gorgeous bakery that has an intense following - people queue up from the early wee hours to score their pastries (some people got a little too intense and the owner/baker had to post a letdown that was much needed). I popped in my first day, just to grab a coffee, met the delightful staff, and got to soak it all up. On the Saturday after my arrival, it was quite a blustery day and I was darting in and out of grocery and book shops when I stopped by they miraculously still had sandwiches and I was so happy to score one of their ham, cheese, cornichons on the exquisite house-made (of course) baguette. It was DELICIOUS and perfect for my cozy afternoon in, napping and reading. I haven’t braved the pastry queue but I hope to get one of them before I go. You can follow them on Insta here. Lovely space, lovely staff, lovely food.
DUNDAS STREET ART GALLERIES
Right around the corner from my flat are several really lovely art galleries. I spent a recent late morning touring through several of them and coveting some stunning pieces. This is a wonderful area to walk around and you can get some delicious coffee, wine, and snacks on Thistle Street, which is just a few minutes away. A delightful way to spend a morning/afternoon.
A few that I really enjoy:
Also on Dundas Street is the newly located but landmark wine bar -
On my first Sunday, I got a LATE start due to the jet lag and really needed fresh air and exercise so I just headed out the door with no real destination in mind. As I was walking up Dundas Street, I spotted this lower floor (downstairs) shop that looked so cozy and had a wonderful blue logo - Good Brothers Wine Bar - I definitely needed to check it out.
I was lucky to meet Graham, the owner, that afternoon. The space was so up my alley - some wonderful cushioned window seats, low tables, a couple of bigger tables, and a tiny but lovely bar. Great lighting and wine on display and a chalkboard of featured wines by the glass - just perfect.
I spent a bit of time chatting up Graham and learning about his business; how he moved from a long-time space not too far away to this space earlier this year and how well it is going. We also talked wine and travel and all the good things. He is a delight and I look forward to more chats with him during my stay.
WALK OF LEITH - walking from Stockbridge to Leith
Walking is my love language.
Exploring and discovering new things and places come from my walks 95% of the time. I’ve stumbled upon some of my favorite places while getting a little bit lost during my travels.
When I was here in the winter I did the walk along the river from Stockbridge to Leith, which is a delightful mix of urban neighborhoods and woody paths. This past Saturday I headed out again and really enjoyed the contrast of barren winter to lush late summer/autumn. It was a cool, slightly overcast day and perfect for the round-trip 90-minute walk mostly along the water.
WILLIAMS AND JOHNSON COFFEE CO.
When I arrived in Leith, I popped my head into Toast, which is a very stylish and popular restaurant (and is great) but decided to keep going to the Customs Wharf and Williams and Johnson Coffee Co.
The queue was about a dozen deep but I wasn’t in a hurry. I love to people watch and there is a small gallery inside that always has interesting art to peruse as well. I was thinking about my snack options as well and decided on the gorgeous-looking scone with butter and jam, all homemade. I also opted for a tahini chocolate chip cookie to take away (it was so yummy).
Williams and Johnson is right on the water and has several options for seating outside, including covered areas, as well as a small inside seating area. I had a stellar coffee and the scone was so incredibly delicious in retrospect I should have ordered one to go. The staff is wonderful - I really recommend making a visit to Leith just for a stop here.
My walk back to Stockbridge was just as lovely and I saw huge gray swans and many dogs out on the path enjoying themselves on and off-leash.
When I arrived back in Stockbridge I decided to swing in and say hi to Jodi at MODM, which is her stylish and wonderful shop on St. Stephens Street (just a few doors down from TREEN).
I met Jodi on my last stay in Edinburgh and we really hit it off and had several wonderful chats. Her skincare products, which she makes with her brother, are FANTASTIC. Honestly, take a look at their Instagram @modm_uk and order some. I am currently swooning over the grapefruit and seagrass body polish scrub. It is SO good.
Be warned: the shop has so many good things you will want. I got my favorite white jade massage stone here and I use it for so much more than my face. I use it on my tendons and piriformis, which get tight while traveling. This piece really is something I use daily. And it is gorgeous.
I have an upcoming dinner date with Jodi at a new spot in Stockbridge - stay tuned!
STOCKBRIDGE SUNDAY MARKET
On Sunday I went to the open-air market in Stockbridge which is small but mighty! Incredible coffee, a French Cheese truck, butcher and fishmongers, artists, and more. The market also has a giant paella artisan maker with 3 GIANT pans of different paellas going all day. Open from 10 am - 4 pm. Located on the corner of Saunders Street.
I did my weekly shopping for dinner here and scored stunning salmon and smoked trout and then went to my staple:
This wonderful shop is my go-to for cheese, fresh eggs, scotch eggs, and game pies. I am obsessed. Rightly so.
I decided to go out for a snack (and maybe a wee bit of wine) on Sunday afternoon and decided to go to Smith & Gertrude, which was a favorite on my last visit (and conveniently located right beneath my flat!). The selection of food and wine is stellar and the staff incredibly lovely.
I was able to score “my” seat at the end of the bar, and Sam and Cara took great care of me, setting me up with a fantastic (and low alcohol - 8%) sparkling Gamay, which is my new fave wine. So luscious and perfect for a rainy afternoon. I also had truffle crisps and anchovies in a decadent oil that was lick-the-plate good.
This was a week of reconnecting with the city and nature seeing lovely familiar places and faces and discovering some new spots.
I can’t wait to share my Whiskey & Folklore Experience, Kirkyards, Dishoom and more….
Traveling to Scotland soon?
Hit me up with questions or intel. I love to be in touch.
Cheers, my friends.
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