Where in the world
For your weekly inspiration and exploration - Kyoto, Japan
When people hear about my travels over the last 5 years, and that I’ve spent at least a month or more in some of these far-flung cities and countries, many of them inevitably ask this question:
where has been your favorite place so far?
A hard one to answer. I’ve had so many rich and wonderful experiences in the countries and cities I’ve been so lucky to call home, even for just a month. There isn’t really a place that I haven’t enjoyed exploring but there are a few that are stand-outs in the way of feeling like home for my soul.
In my top 3 - Kyoto, Japan
It was the call to visit Kyoto that led to my first long-term travel outing in 2019, committing to living in 4 countries, for 4 months, in Southeast Asia. I had never been to Southeast Asia and most people I knew at the time said they were surprised by that choice in that I am a wine professional and they would have guessed some countries in Europe first. It was a call from my heart when I saw the 4 monthly itinerary*: Vietnam - Thailand - Japan - Malaysia with Japan being the country I was most excited about.
There is so much to say about Kyoto as one of the most wonderful, peaceful, delicious, abundant, lovely cities in the world. Currently on Time magazine’s 50 worlds greatest places 2023, Japan’s unofficial “capital of culture” has an elegance and ease to day-to-day life. Nature, museums, restaurants, the shrines, the people - everything was magic to me.
A gorgeous mix of historic buildings and neighborhoods, incredible parks and shrines and a more modern “center” Kyoto is a highly livable city that does not feel at all crowded. There is a mystical, restorative feel to the Kamo river which snakes through the center that called to me daily to bike, walk, bring my lunch or dinner to eat, enjoy and just sit at the banks listening to the gurgling of the waters.
One of the best things I learned while living there in May 2019, is that there is an ordinance in the city on how high a building can be built in order to NOT block the views of the [magic] mountain ranges that surround Kyoto.
And the QUIET that comes over the city at night, as early as 9 pm, was something I relished and also rejuvenated me.
From the moment I arrived, I felt at home. I was so lucky to have a tidy, tiny, perfectly situated apartment, located in the Nakagyo ward a wonderfully urban subdivision of the city, out of the bustle of the center, but only a 15-minute bike or 30-minute walk could get me there. Honestly, it seemed to be made for me.
Since this is my weekly post of inspiration and exploration for your weekend armchair travel, I am keeping the links short and to just the two blocks around my apartment. The Nakagyo ward was incredible - the abundance that surrounded me in Kyoto was far-reaching and the list is LONG but my street was a treasure trove of deliciousness. Within a few minutes walk, I had a Michelin-star restaurant, an Izakaya, where I discovered macerated lemon whisky highballs and became friends with the staff, often hearing a “Konnichiwa Michele” from the open doors as I walked home, the most perfect natural wine bar, drop-dead ramen, and fried chicken and excellent coffee, of course.
Iso Stand - my delicious and dangerous Izakaya (Japanese whiskey is delightful)
Recontre Kyoto - grower Champagne bar with only 6 seats and the most dapper owner - we had a long conversation entirely conducted on google translate…delightful
Deux Cochons - the most elegant husband and wife own this tiny spot with a rocking wine list and delectable pork rillettes. I would tuck in for a glass of wine or share a bottle with a friend, with the record player spinning. Literally 50 steps from my front door.
Awomb - voted one of the top restaurants for seafood and sushi in Kyoto. A must stop.
Wanderers Stand - a little bit further afoot but only a 15-minute bike ride (I rented a bike for the whole month and it is the best way to get around the city, other than walking) - these guys make their bread, which they toast and let me just say - its life changing toast. And they make great coffee.
La famille Morinago- 10 seats. Tasting menu. Wine pairings. Tucked away down a residential alley. Unreal.
Hot tips:
Don’t skip the 7-Elevens or the train station markets. No lie. They are AWESOME. Delicious sushi, egg salad sandwiches that will change your life, and quick pick ups in a very clean, lovely setting. The opposite of what you experience in the US….especially the 7-Elevens!
BEWARE: when eating down by the river. The giant hawks will swoop down and grab your food out of your hands with their razor-sharp talons. I saw this in person and it is legit terrifying. Check out this video!
Have a great weekend!
Ogenki de, Tomodachi
*For a brief explanation of the itinerary referenced above, I traveled using a company called Remote Year. Remote Year handles the details of securing your apartments in desirable areas of your city, services, and experiences you can opt in or out of, access to 24-hour co-working offices, and travel between countries. They offer 4 and 12-month itineraries, a different country every month.