Where in the World - Lisbon, Portugal
On this day 4 years ago.....
This week 4 years ago….
What is time?
Right now, it equally feels like moments ago and a million years ago that on this day 4 years ago, I arrived in Lisbon, Portugal for the first time, for a month’s stay.
We are definitely in a different world from July 2019. But travel is back (kind of with a crazy, not altogether awesome, vengeance - especially in the summer) after quiet (2021) and completely still (2020) years, and Lisbon, Portugal is a “heat score” of a destination.
In July 2019, with just a quick 4-night stopover in London, I arrived late one evening in Portugal, after living in SE Asia for the previous 4 months. I flew in from Kuala Lumpur, Malaysia on a 14-hour direct flight to eat and drink and get acclimated in London before transitioning to Lisbon, Portugal where I was spending July 2019.
My jet lag was FIERCE - unlike any I had experienced before, even when I flew from Portland to Vietnam a few months earlier (23 hours total) - and I was zombie-like my first few days settling into my beautiful neighborhood of Alfama. Alfama is the oldest and more characterful neighborhood in Lisboa (and also a MAJOR “party in the street all-night” zone). My row house apartment was on the 4th floor, with no elevator, of a historic colorfully tiled building that featured lots of windows and cool cross breezes from the ocean at the bottom of the steep hills surrounding us. Luckily, my bedroom was in the back of the apartment, away from the street, so the constant revelry-until-dawn (not exaggerating in the slightest) did not keep me awake.
Once my jet lag abated, I was full-in explorer mode of the stunner of a city and the surrounding areas. Daily, I came home completely tuckered out from my excursions, happily falling into a deep sleep, usually by 10 pm.
However, some nights I stayed out later as it was in Lisbon that I discovered the joys of walking to the park and enjoying the kiosk café, or the Quiosque*, as they are known in Portuguese. These café that dot the city’s many beautiful parks, are a combo of closed gazebo and food stalls, offering light snacks, coffee, beer, and spritz! My routine in Lisbon would come to include later evening walks to the park for a spritz and a chat with a travel friend, enjoying the community feels, as locals and visitors alike gather to chat, play cards, sit with their dogs, and enjoy a beverage (or a smoke). Then, I would wind my way home, often through a high-energy party, to climb the stairs to my bed.
Lisbon is a vibrant, gorgeous city, perched on the Atlantic Ocean, that offers so much in the way of enjoyment of the outdoors, culture, history, and incredible food and wine (that is so affordable!). From bike rides along the waterfront to exploring the neighborhoods (climbing, climbing - be prepared to HIKE) to riding the famous streetcars - its all wonderful. The food is epic. How I never knew the gloriousness of roasted sardines until visiting Lisbon is beyond comprehension. The food and wines of the region are so incredible.
Stunning architecture, breathtaking azulejos (ceramic tiles), and a rich history combined with people who are so kind and friendly making it a must for intrepid travelers.
My 4.5 weeks in Portugal passed way too quickly and I know that I want to return. Lisbon was wonderful but there is much of the country to see. I managed the train quite well, booking a long weekend in Porto, which I loved (click to read my Porto post).
Going to Sintra, Colares, and Cais Cais for the day and exploring castles in the sky, hidden beaches, and eating incredible seafood is a MUST.
You can book an Airbnb Experience and have a day out in the Duoro Valley, a UNESCO World Heritage site and one of the most stunning places I’ve ever been. My experience included a wonderful boat ride on the river, tastings at historic port producers, and a long lunch at a local family spot with plenty of refreshing green wine. Heaven.
Summer is WILD. As I have with my recommendations for Italy, I really recommend shoulder season (May/June or September/October) for a less hectic, more relaxed experience. If you go in summer, just know before you go and be prepared for long lines, more people. My July in Portugal was, indeed, Muito Bom.
Here are links to a few do not miss spots:
A Cevicheria - I ate here so many times during my month is Lisbon. It is delicious. And very popular so time your visit well and be prepared to wait. They are known for their Pisco Sours so grab one and enjoy the fresh air while you wait for your table.
Time Out Market Lisbon - I went here several times to grab lunch or snacks. Lots of stalls and shops, there was a fantastic wine shop where I made friends with the owners who turned me onto so many local wines.
Hop onto Airbnb Experiences and find a good walking/eating tour. See my Bologna Post as to why this will change your life.
Jardim Roque Gameira - on the waterfront in Lisbon, there is a stretch of old warehouses that are now restaurants with ocean-side seating. I would bring a book, get a spritz (spritz life is STRONG in Lisbon!), and snacks and spend the afternoon enjoying life. There are reclining benches up for grabs to relax in between hill climbs.
The Mill for trendy breakfast and lunch - close by my Almalfa apartment - great coffee and good vibe. Small though!
Copenhagen Coffee Lab & Bakery - a location near my apartment was excellent for remote working and delicious coffee
For Pesticos and Wine: Pesticos is the Portuguese version of tapas and the best place to go is By the Wine - a cool space, with an excellent wine list and delish food in the Chiado neighborhood.
MUST: Restaruante de Adraga in Colares on the beach. I called this the hidden beach, as it was so sparsely populated, and it was just wonderful. There is a single restaurant building that houses a fantastic seafood restaurant that you would be so lucky to eat at. You must get a booking. Next door there is a small café and you should get a bowl of their seafood stew and some bread - so insanely GOOD.
This post just covers the tip of the iceberg that is Lisboa. There is SO much more in, and around, Lisbon. Hit me up if you want help with neighborhoods, restaurants, and/or apartments. I am happy to help.
Also - if you have been to Lisbon or surrounding areas, please share the places you have discovered and love.
Final Hot Tip: if you are booking an apartment in any European city, I recommend reaching out to the host for clarity on lifts/elevators. Most good hosts state clearly in the listing if there is a walk-up and no lift but not all do. If your apartment is not ground level, a conversation is highly recommended as a 2nd-floor apartment I booked in Italy was 5 different stairwells UP. It is really up to YOU to get all the details.
Saúde!