Elegant Torino, Italy
Chasing Autumn Continues
Salve from Torino, Italy my friends.
So many wonderful things to share from Turin, or Torino, this will be part 1 of I’m not sure how many parts, as I will be here for 2 months. I have 3 months total in Italy but will be spending a month in Florence (where I have spent the last two years at this time) in between 2 months in Turin. I’m equally excited to immerse myself in a new region and city with Tornino and to return to Florence to see favorite places and people.
It is almost unnecessary to state that Italy is a magical place to explore but I am finding the absolute joy and magic in discovering every place I am visiting to be unique in every way. A little background: I’ve been really lucky that I’ve been able to spend the last 3 years, from late autumn to winter, exploring Italy (90-days in the Schengen is all I’m allowed on my US Visa or I would stay longer). How I have structured my travels is to stay at least a month in one spot but ideally, it is more than that so I can create a home base to feel grounded, creating a routine to do my work, while still allowing me to move about. Italy has great options for train travel, which I use quite often for day and longer overnight trips. So, here I am in Torino for the first time and I am in love.
Chasing Autumn in Torino
Torino is so glorious right now. The autumn colors are vibrant with golds and reds and the evening light is stunning. There is a good chill in the air and I’m delighted to need my scarf when taking a walk through the city from my apartment down to the River Po.
I’ve been busy since arriving two weeks ago, taking the train from Milan, where I spent a few days (you can read about Milan here). My Torino apartment, which is in the Centro area (the center), is incredibly charming and comfortable. In a very lovely building with a wonderful courtyard, it seems that I have several Opera singers in my building and I can hear at least two different singers practicing from my kitchen every day. My street and surrounding blocks have some of the very best Patisserie, historic food shops, bakeries, and at least two locations for Torets, which are small and sweet cast-iron bulls that are usually bottle green and used to supply fresh water. These public water fountains are somewhat sacred elements and a landmark for the citizens of Turin.
The apartment is perfect for this initial exploration of Turin. I found that I am less than a 5-minute walk from the Royal Palace and the surrounding piazza and shops include very historic spots for coffee, food, and wine. I am less than a 10-minute walk from the Duomo and the Roman Wall, which has a lovely park. Best of all, I am minutes away from the Porta Palazzo - the biggest market in Turin, which has so many incredible vegetable, fruit, cheese, meats, seafood stalls and counters it can be dizzying.
I am about 20-ish minutes from the Po, which is the stunning river in Torino, which gives me an excellent way to get in additional steps each week because the river and its trails are so full of color and so charming that I must get down there several times a week.
Experiences in Torino
Before arriving in Torino I had looked on Airbnb, where I book all of my best experiences, to start a wishlist (which you can do in your Airbnb account and is very helpful) of the experiences that spoke to me. I had saved a couple of different walking food tours, a history tour, and a cooking class. Once I arrived and settled in, I booked a food tour straight away. I was delighted to discover it would explore my area of the city, therefore I would have excellent intel on great places for food, wine and coffee - three favorite things. My host, Matteo, is a private chef and it turns out I was his only booking that day so I ended up with a private experience that day.
My day with Matteo in Torino was excellent. We met in front of Mercato Centrale and immediately he shared key areas and vendors that I would not have discovered on my own including vegetable stands out of the main square, introducing me to the most attractive family who own/run an epic charcuterie, cheese and uniquely Turin specialties (such as Russian Salad and anchovy pesto) counter; and the “King of Pasta” as Matteo introduced him who has the best pasta counter. The market experience alone was worth the tour price, honestly. At the family counter, I was given a plate of specialty items that included bresaola, tongue with a local red sauce, Russian salad, and beef tartare. To-Die-For delicious.
I loved chatting with Matteo about food, wine, and Turin. We spent 3.5 hours together that went by extremely fast, walking through the center streets, and visiting bakeries, coffee spots for Bicerin, a very special historic cheese shop, and ending with a chocolate and vermouth tasting that blew me away. Everything was super local unique and delicious.
A note about Vermouth and Torino: Vermouth first began being produced as a product in the 18th century in Turin. Distiller Antonio Benedetto Carpano is credited as being the first vermouth producer. In 1786, he opened a shop selling the drink which he had also produced. Vermouth soon became so popular that the shop opened 24 hours a day.
Vermouth is very much a part of the culture here and I have found bartenders and servers to be very passionate about sharing their favorites. As I mentioned above, the one I had with Matteo was incredible, and added another item that I had dismissed in the US as not for me to my list of “oh I just never had a good one”.
My experience with Matteo was a 10/10. He ended up inviting me to join a cooking class at his home the next day. He had two guests booked and had room for me if I wanted. Of course, I said yes.
Matteo’s cooking class was also really wonderful. We spent the late morning and early afternoon making delicious foods, including homemade pasta, and a wonderful anchovy sauce that is very local to Turin. I very much enjoyed the couple from the UK that were the other guests and following our class and lunch, we ended up all going to a museum and then to aperitivo together - a delicious and fun day.
Matteo also sent a list of his favorite spots to eat and drink in Tornino and I have been using that list. 90% of the list was new to me and I already had a good-sized list going.
Having the experiences with Matteo has enriched my time here already.
Other highlights from Torino:
Bicerin
Where do I begin?
On the day I arrived in Torino, I got settled and unpacked at my apartment around 2 pm and then headed out to treat myself to a Bicerin.
Bicerin is a Piedmont specialty and I learned of it on Stanley Tucci’s Searching for Italy Piedmont episode. However, most writers doing Turin features, will of course touch on Bicerin because it is native to this city. Meaning “small round glass” this is a rich and delicious beverage that layers hot chocolate, espresso, and whipped cream.
I had bookmarked Caffe Bicerin, and now have been told by several locals that this is the best place for Bicerin. I concur. I was delighted to find that Caffe Bicerin, built in 1763 in the Piazza della Consulata, was only 11 minute walk from my apartment.
A tiny, very elegant spot with only 8 tables inside, I was lucky to walk in and get a table right away. Each table has a taper candle and banquettes line the walls. The ladies serving me were all so charming and it was clear that you were welcome to linger as long as you like at your table - savoring your experience.
I ordered a Bicerin and a plate of baked goods - they have many specialties of the region in this assortment.
Something to note: do not stir your Bicerin when it arrives with a spoon! The drink is meant to be sipped with the layers unfolding and this is the way to do it. Actually, all the servers tell everyone that stirring is not necessary. The spoon is for scooping up all the luscious warm chocolate at the end.
I cannot tell you how much I love Bicerin. I have gone to 2 other places here in Torino that are recommended on lots of sites on the city and they cannot compare to Caffe Bicerin even though they were very good. So be sure to go to Caffe Bicerin but also be prepared.
When I left that first day, sort of floating out of the caffe, there was a line of about 10-15 people waiting for a seat inside. I was so lucky to just walk in. I do recommend waiting out the queue to be able to experience the inside. It is that good and special.
Located in a lively and pretty piazza, Piazza IV Marzo, in the shadow of the Torino Duomo this is the place for a warm autumn evening Aperitvo with a plate of Torino food specialties including beef tartare, Russian salad (so good) and my favorite: acciughe al magnet verde or anchovies in green “bath” or sauce.
The piazza is one of my favorites in the center for its lively local feel and beauty. Casa Broglio is perfect for exploring the local specialties with their tapas style Aperitivo plate and nice wines by the glass at great prices.
Beautiful Walks In My Neighborhood
The Centro neighborhood is full of beauty, delicious food, and lots of shops.
I think I will wrap up Part 1 of Torino here. There is an abundance of loveliness to share.
I went to the gorgeous, charming, small town of Alba last week which is a very easy and wonderful day trip from Torino. More on that coming very soon.
Let me know if you have been to Turin or are planning a trip. What have you discovered that is a must or what you have planned.
As always, I am happy to help should you have questions - be sure to message me.
If you know people interested in travel, Italy, solo travel, and more and are called to I would so appreciate you sharing Pied À Terre Life. I would be so grateful.
Until next time friends - Buona Giornata.