Life Lately: Melbourne
Halfway through 2024
Hi Friends,
I’m reflecting on life lately as we hit the halfway point of 2024 (how?) with the start of June this weekend and the summer solstice coming into clear view in just a few weeks.
Last week I said goodbye to Melbourne, Australia where I have been since January 8, and on my (extremely) long flights to my next destination, I was happily reflecting on what a delicious slice of life my time in Australia was.
But Australia wasn’t on my bingo card for 2024, which I feel made it even more special.
Here is a little story on what I call divine intervention:
It was late November 2023, and I was happily ensconced in my little flat in Florence, Italy - my 3rd year there - soaking everything that I loved up about that special spot but thoughts turned to “what’s next?” I can only stay in the Schengen (see here to learn about the Schengen zone and what it means) for 90 days maximum on my regular US Visa and (in the simplest terms) staying 90 consecutive days means I have to leave for another 90 days before I can return. I could and would stay in Italy until January on this trip, having arrived in October, but now I needed to figure out where to go after Italy (that wasn’t in the Schengen).
I had no need or interest in returning to the US post-Italy. I work for myself and have worked remotely for many years now. Sometimes I return to the US to work on in-person projects with clients but I had specifically eliminated those kinds of projects for 2023-2024 so I could be more location-independent and say yes if exciting opportunities came up (or I created them).
In late November ‘23 I was exploring a few options:
Returning to Scotland, where I had spent several months in 2023 for the first time and completely fell in love with the country and its people.
Montenegro - I am very intrigued by this gorgeous country and have bookmarked some areas and flats to explore.
Albania - I know a few people who have spent good time here and love it.
All of these places are non-Schengen countries and are welcoming to US passport holders.
On this one rainy November morning, I decided to put a deposit on the flat in Edinburgh I had been looking at for a couple of weeks beginning on January 15, 2024, for a month. I went to the company site and found the apartment was now gone. I sat staring at the screen nonplussed.
I had just been on the site the night before and the flat was available!
And now it wasn’t.
I reached out to my contact for the rental company and by the end of the day found it had been rented the night before. No longer available for my dates.
I was disappointed and frustrated. There wasn’t another apartment in the neighborhood that I wanted to be in coming up on the site. I sent another email to my contact asking if she could help me with other flats in nearby neighborhoods and then settled in to wait to see what would come up.
Meanwhile…the universe (which I like to call the higher power in my life) had other plans.
Two mornings later, I woke early with plans for a long walk to the Piazza Michelangelo (see my Florence favorites here) and as I grabbed my phone I saw I had a WhatsApp message. I don’t get those very often and I opened it to see a message from Toni, a dear friend and colleague of my son’s, who I have gotten to know and have spent time with in different cities over the last [almost] decade. She lives in Melbourne Australia but travels a lot for her job. Her message read:
“Zach mentioned you might be interested in staying in my house while I’m on tour. I’m heading out on an extended tour beginning January 15. Would you be interested?”
I wrote back in ALL CAPS: YES!
January 15 was the exact date I needed to leave Italy. What??
Instead of heading out on my walk, I ended up on a nice long call with Toni about her trip, her apartment, her cat named Little, and timing and what she needed.
I just said YES. And then figured out everything I needed to make it happen. Which turned out to be pretty easy.
Holding a US Passport, I need a visa to visit/stay in Australia. I was easily able to get one online that allowed me to stay up to 3-months at a time, multiple times, for a year. It’s called an ETA and you can check it out here.
I then started looking for flights from Italy to Australia. I would be staying in Tornio from mid-December through January but found the best flights from Rome. No problem. I was able to book an inexpensive hotel near the Rome airport (which is outside the city) for the night before my flight. I was able to get a very reasonably priced flight with only one stop/connection to Melbourne. I booked it and we were set. I was heading to Australia for several months.
I was super excited. I had been to Australia before, for a 3-week visit to Sydney, staying with friends living in Bondi Beach, in 2008, and loved it but had never been to Melbourne. Melbourne is much beloved as a city and for its residents and has many fans all over the world.
Also, when I arrived it would be mid-summer and the seasons would transition to autumn which is my very favorite season. If you have been reading here for a while you will know that I like to “chase autumn” in my travels and this timing was perfect.
Toni lives in a suburb of Melbourne called Fairfield. I have to say, Fairfield was perfect for me. I don’t drive on “the other side” so it would be very important for me to live in a walkable area, have good public transport access, and have at least some services within a 20-minute walk such as groceries and coffee. Well, Fairfield has all of this and more.
Toni’s flat is located basically right on the Yarra River and is in a cozy, charming neighborhood right next to Yarra Bend Park, a huge green area that the river snakes through, with trails that can take you right into the city if you are so inclined to walk all the way there [about 15 miles].
A less than 15-minute walk also takes you to the train line into the city with stops in lively neighborhoods such as Fitzroy; Carlton Hill and Richmond on the way. The same walk takes you to a vibrant street of shops, bakeries, grocery stores, doctors’ offices, and restaurants. Simply perfect for me.
Getting Acclimated
When I arrived in Melbourne, I had a week with Toni to get acclimated to the flat, and the area and to make friends with her elusive cat, Little.
Toni is a very high-energy person with a demanding job of touring with musical artists and other shows. She loves art and music and good food and I always enjoyed spending time with her when we met out in the world. As she was getting ready to be gone on a hectic tour, I wanted to make the transition as easy as possible, and be a low-key house guest. Mostly, I slept, as my jet lag was fierce. I quickly made friends with Little, which astonished Toni and delighted me. He was not fond of new people. Or any people besides Toni but we became fast friends. I adored him.
During the week before Toni left, I got acquainted with the river and the park and got to know my neighborhood. Toni and I had dinner at a wonderful restaurant before she left, which became one of my favorites, Cam’s Kiosk, which is in an old convent [Abbotsford Convent] which has a wonderful courtyard with other restaurants, art galleries, and cafes.
Getting Creative
Before I left Italy I was called to look for a possible writing class or cohort in Melbourne. Melbourne is a city of the arts and has lots “on” all year round. I’ve been working on a screenplay for some time and was hoping to be able to find an in-person workshop or group for my time there. I was really lucky and found one through the Wheeler Center, located in the CBD, beginning in February. I signed up and it was one of the very best experiences I have ever had. My group was amazing - so engaged and generous. I feel so lucky to be a student of our teacher, successful writer Anna Snoekstra (I highly recommend checking out her books) - I learned so much and was very inspired to new levels of creativity. 100 out of 100.
Things fell into place so incredibly EASY with life in Melbourne and I was so delighted with the universe presenting this opportunity for me. I had a place I loved exploring. I met so many lovely people and made real friends that I know I will see and keep in touch with. I had a lovely place to live that was comfortable and charming. And I had a sweet animal to care for and call mine for a few months.
Melbourne is a very easy place to live. At least it was for me and where I was. I could easily get into the city by train and often went for many reasons during my months there: for shows, museums, my writing class, and more.
Closer to Fairfield, and fairly easily accessible by the train, are very hip neighborhoods such as Fitzroy and Brunswick. Lots of amazing restaurants, bookshops, bakeries, and coffee and wine bars.
Melbourne loves a wine bar as much as they love coffee and both are EXCELLENT. I met up with friends several times for dinners and outings and taking the train was easy. A few times I opted to Uber home if it was late and that was easy to access and quite affordable in Melbourne. Easy Ubers aren’t always the case in every city/country while traveling so that is why I mention it here.
The coffee and food hype is REAL. Melbourne is probably where I have had the best coffee in the world for the type of coffee they make (flat whites, lattes, etc). Italy still is my top coffee though but Melbourne is right there with it. There are lots of chefs killing it in Melbourne and you can find every type of cuisine done really, really well. The restaurant scene is so impressive. So, if you love great food, wine, and coffee: start making a plan for a visit to Melbourne ASAP.
I was able to explore a bit outside of Melbourne, spending a long weekend in Lorne, a surf town off the Great Ocean Road, which was relaxing, beautiful and fun. An approximate 2-hour drive from Melbourne, Lorne is a stunningly charming little town, with a beautiful beach and lush bush walks. There was delightful wildlife: at dusk, my friends took me to their golf course where there were dozens of packs of wild kangaroos grazing, which was amazing! We spent 5 days here and it was one of the highlights of my entire Melbourne experience. [Big big love to Deb and Mike for inviting me and being such great friends and hosts] We walked a lot, watched surfers braving one day of incredible waves, went on a really lovely bushwalk, made food together, spotted giant rays under the boardwalk across from their house, had many “cockies” (cockatoos) visit our deck, took a great drive to have lunch in a teeny tiny town and just enjoyed each others company. A divine experience.
During my time in Australia, I also spent most of April in New Zealand - which you can read all about here.
But mostly, during my time in Melbourne from January through May, I was in the rhythm of being “home”. Making my neighborhood of Fairfield and the city of Melbourne my place for this season of my life. It was lovely. I’m so thankful to Toni for thinking of me and I adored my furry friend, Little. I will miss him.
A not-complete list of Melbourne Places
Below is my list of favorites from my time in Melbourne. This isn’t even the tip of the iceberg for all Melbourne has to offer but this post would be so much longer if I listed everything.
If you are thinking of visiting or have a trip planned and have questions, please let me know! I’m happy to help.
FAIRFIELD:
Yarra Bend Park - Melbourne’s largest natural bushland park. A 260-hectare (640-acre) park with abundant wildlife (the bats at night are EPIC) and trails for walking and biking.
15 Pounds Coffee Cafe - this was my very favorite place to have coffee in all of Melbourne. I walked here just about every day, after my long park walk, to enjoy a chat with my friends who worked there and get a delicious coffee. It might seem indulgent to buy coffee every day but I happily spent the money for the wonderful ritual, community, and the delicious coffee itself.
Bretna Meats - this divine Italian butcher was my spot for all things authentic Italy products and excellent meats.
Oasis - a grocery store and food counter with an abundant selection
Biviano & Sons - my other specialty grocer for excellent vegetables and fruits and select items.
A1 Bakery - a beloved bakery in Melbourne this is the place for pastries, foldovers, sandwiches, salads, dips, and more. Always a huge line.
SISU Botanicals - this sweet shop was right next to 15 Pounds and offered so many holistic services and classes. I went for 2 massages and both were fantastic. I wish I had made it to some of the events there. Love this spot and the people.
Femme Vital - Chinese medicine and acupuncture - Dr. Ilana was key in helping me with some energy issues I had due to menopause after I arrived. Her acupuncture treatments helped rebalance me. So thankful she was a 10-minute walk from my flat.
Heide Museum of Modern Art - a public art museum and sculpture park. I loved this spot so much. It was originally an artist community and private home. There is a gorgeous kitchen garden for the restaurant and the park has live music in season.
CAMS Kiosk - Abbotsford Convent - adjacent to Fairfield only a 7-minute drive. One of my favorite meals and spots to hang out.
FITZROY-BRUNSWICK-COLLINGWOOD AREAS: you could easily just walk down Gertrude St or Smith St in Fitzroy and pop into random places and find yourself in great spaces but here a few of my faves:
Builders Arms Hotel - for drinks, snacks, sidewalk people-watching, dinner…for it all.
Archie’s All Day - brunch. Did someone say brunch? Or just epic coffee. Both.
Napier Quarter - I was lucky this wasn’t in my neighborhood because I would have been here all the time. The coziest neighborhoody wine bar/restaurant with an incredible list, lovely staff, and excellent menu. On a tree-lined residential street. Perfection. A must.
Alimentari - the best sandwiches and salads. Epic. And a gorgeous little shop next door. I had a horrible service experience the first time I went and almost didn’t go back but I decided to give it a second chance and it was fine. The food is fantastic.
ALTA - yummy italian with epic wine list. Upscale and trendy but worth the hype.
Enoteca Zingara - newly opened the week we were (and 10 days before I left) there this Italian spot with wonderful counter seating is associated with ALTA. Coolers full of Italian wines, small plates, cocktails and more I would have gone back many times if it wasn’t the end of my trip!
CBD (Central Business District): Melbourne is a very vibrant city with lots “ON” all the time: shows, games, concerts, plays….you name it. The CBD is very lively and it is a MUST to walk the river, especially at night. It’s stunning.
Melbourne Recital Hall: I went to a show with a new friend I made in my writing class and I wish I had gone to more concerts here. It is stunningly beautiful and intimate and the acoustics are fantastic. In the courtyard outside there is a great little bar with snacks, called Blondie Bar. A great night out.
Miss Pearls - a tasty restaurant next to the Recital Hall that is perfect for pre-show dining. My dinner was delicious.
Melbourne National Gallery Museum: the museum if FREE and it is wonderful. Several floors of art and a fancier cafe along with a cafeteria. I went during school holidays which was too crowded for me but still good. I just longed for a rainy empty day there to really absorb all the good art.
Caretakers Cottage - one of the 50 best bars in the world. I went with two of my writing class “mates” after an all-day class one Saturday and this was one of my favorite experiences in the CBD. A literal caretaker’s cottage, there is a big green space outside, but it sits in the midst of skyscraper buildings. The inside is tiny and behind the bar they have someone spinning vinyl and there is a palpable great energy to the whole place. Excellent wine list, epic cocktails, and great snacks. A MUST.
Gimlet at Cavendish House - this was on my list and I tried to go twice and it didn’t work out. Very disappointed. But I know it is fantastic. Several friends have attested to this! So I can happily recommend giving it a go. It’s definitely a fancy night out.
ANIMALS:
I am obsessed with animals but I don’t like zoos so I searched for a sanctuary instead and was able to visit the Healesville Sanctuary, which is about an hour outside of Melbourne. A new Melbourne friend who has lived there all her life offered to go with me and we had the very best day! I booked a private experience to visit with the Tawny Frogmouths and it did not disappoint.
The sanctuary has incredible animals, impressive birds and natural grounds - seeing a very active Platypus likely made my whole life - and does excellent conservation work. We also saw koalas, wombats, a kingfisher (which also made my day), pelicans, parrots, red-tailed black cockatoos, and more. So impressive.
Giant Bats - every night at sunset from my deck. As I mentioned, my flat was right on the Yarra and sat next to Yarra Bend Park. Every night at dusk I would go out to my deck and watch all the GIANT bats fly out of the trees to go hunt for the night. There were thousands of them. Some were likely bigger than Little, my cat friend. It never got old to watch them.
Kookaburras - I was obsessed with the kookaburras. If you don’t know them, here is a video to get you acquainted. I heard them every day outside my flat but only was able to spot one briefly until one day I was walking in the park. I was turning a corner and out of the tree on my right a kookaburra flew right in front of me and was quickly followed by a second! I saw them land across the park on a pole and I went running after them. A friend of mine told me that she “called to them” in their unique laugh (which sound like a monkey) so I tried calling to these guys and what happened??? This guy FLEW DOWN next to me! Yes, I was the crazy lady in the park but who cares? Nature is magic. (and yes I was really making their call, while running through the park. Crazy lady indeed.)
Whew - this is one of my longest posts to date but I hope you enjoy the storytelling of how Melbourne came to be my home for the first half of 2024. As I’ve shared before, I am kind of making this up as I go and right now I am delighted and grateful that this whole way of life is working very well for me.
I am currently in Paris, France and it is my very first time here (if you can believe it). I have tried to make Paris happen a few times and things just didn’t come together but I believe in divine timing and I feel that very much with this current situation. I will be here until the end of July (I’m bouncing out before the Olympics makes the city insane) and cannot wait to share all my discoveries.
I will be doing a weekly or biweekly additional post called “This Week in Paris” as there is so much to see. I have a giant list that just keeps getting longer and if this last week is any indication I will have so much goodness to share. Stay tuned.
If you would like to follow me on instagram I post a lot of stories of my finds and recommendations as well. You can find me @michele_boyer_m
Finally, Life Off-Script, my audio journal will finally resume this week. I had to take a little break due to some personal things but it is coming back! Thanks to everyone who has listened and commented with so much enthusiasm. I so appreciate you.
Thanks so much for being here.
Have a good week my friends.
Bisous.
Wow, what a wonderful few months! I firmly believe that cats can truly sense good humans and Little did just that. ;)