Torino, Italy - Part 2
Torino is a must visit, my friends
Hi Friends,
I was so excited last week when a new Aussie friend reached out to chat about their extended trip to Italy that’s coming up later this year. They have several spots planned and want to include Torino for the very first time.
I fell very hard for Torino (Turin) during my two very different months there in 2023 so I was thrilled to be asked for tips and guidance for these new friends first visit.
I’ve written several posts on my first month in Torino which saw me chasing autumn in the Piemonte and having a wonderful time. You can find those posts here and here. They include details of my very charming apartment and neighborhood; excursions to the countryside; experiences; favorite spots and more.
However, it was during my 2nd visit that I fell for Torino in a way that I felt like I was living there, was part of the community, and that I now need to return, and often.
But let me start with a little recap of my 3 months in Italy and how I laid it out.
Italy offers so much in the way of truly magical places that it is impossible for me to not explore different areas. The food, the local phrases and greetings, the heartbeats of everyday life, the art - all so unique to the area, city or region. Italy calls to be explored deeply and meaningfully.
Under my regular US travel visa, I can visit Italy [or anywhere in the Schengen area] for 3 months, which may seem like a good amount of time but I find it isn’t enough when it comes to Italy. This was going to be my 3rd year in Italy for the late autumn/early winter and at first, I thought I might make Turin my main base for the whole 3 months and explore from there on long weekend excursions. I quickly scrapped that because I also love Florence in a way that requires I return. I have made friends in Florence (see my latest update on Florence here) and wanted to visit with them and honestly, I just can’t get enough of Florence in the winter. So I decided on the following:
Mid-October through mid-November in Torino to “chase autumn” and enjoy my favorite season while exploring the city and the Piemonte region. In mid-November, I would move to Florence and spend a month there before returning to Torino for the holidays and staying through my exit date of January 13.
As I stated, I very much enjoyed my first month in Torino but while I was in Florence I was wondering if maybe I should have explored a third region while in Italy. I also had so much fun in Florence I was a bit sad I hadn’t just stayed 2 months there as I had in the past.
But, on the day I arrived back to Torino something immediately began to shift inside me. For my second visit, I booked an apartment in a different part of the city - right on the River Po. This was a 25-minute walk from my original neighborhood so it was going to be a different experience. Right away, arriving in from the train in the later afternoon I was enchanted by the setting sun over the Po. My apartment also exceeded my expectations, far surpassing the photos on Airbnb, in charm and comfort. My host, Stefano, who is an artist and all-around exceptional human being quickly became a friend as well, as we easily fell into conversation about our work, travel, food and wine, and more when he met me to let me in and give me the keys. This is something to note: it is not at all unusual for hosts in Europe to meet you at the apartment. When this happened the first time, which I think was in Porto, Portugal, I was wondering why the host would meet me? However, I have come to see it as a wonderful example of true hospitality and care for the guest experience. I have found it so wonderful to have the host explain how everything works including appliances and heat/cooling and doors! This is a wonderful service they are providing and I also think, from the host's perspective, it is important to know who is staying in your home.
The apartment is on the inside of a historic building on one of the central squares of Turin, the Piazza Vittoria Veneto, so while being in a very vibrant area it offers a quiet, relaxing experience. I loved it so much.
Walking the Po, sometimes multiple times a day, became my ritual. The dazzling sunsets and the views of the Mole and the Chiesa di Santa Maria del Monte dei Cappuccini lighting up the hill made me pause every time I went out my door.
There is a vibrant community feel to the neighborhoods that surround the Piazza and across the river. This feeling immersed me and I quickly became well-acquainted with my local butcher, a tiny wine shop, a specialty grocery, and, of course, multiple delicious pasticceria and forno all within a few minutes walk from my front door. This part of Torino feels the influences of both France and Italy and those are reflected in architecture, settings, and mood. One of my favorite spots was right across the bridge from my apartment, Lumen, which was little more than a chic window cafe with outdoor seating. I could get a Select spritz and anchovy toast and people watch on the busy corner across from Chiesa Parrocchiale della Gran Madre di Dio.
For the committed walker I am, there were many nooks and crannies of this neighborhood including charming parks both big and small, churches, cafes, bookstores (so many!), great restaurants, and beautiful architecture.
I loved spending the holidays in Turin. The festive feeling, decor, and markets are everything I want from Christmas in Italy. Originally, I thought I might take a weekend trip to Genoa or Vincenza during this second visit but I was enjoying life in Turin so much I settled in.
Time flew by and to say I wasn’t ready to leave, would be an understatement. When I go back, which I am already planning, I will stay in my flat on the Po. It is another spot, like my Florence apartment, that feels like a home away from home.
So, when my new Aussie friend asked about Torino, I combined both of my stays and experiences into recommendations for her, and for my readers here is a list of everywhere I loved during my second stay.
My most excellent apartment on the Piazza Vittoria Veneto
Lumen Gourmet - aperitivo and coffee spot - be sure to have an anchovy and butter toast and a Select Spritz (the best of all spritz in my opinion)
Pasticceria Ghigo since 1870 - a MUST - I didn’t even know about this magic place until my chef friend, Sergio, in Florence, told me about it. A mere 5-minute walk from my door, this historic spot had a line over an hour long during the week leading up to Christmas. Their famous Nuvola - the Cloud: a rich pandoro covered in buttercream and dusted with icing sugar is to die for. Seriously.
Da Michele - a classic spot on the Piazza Vittoria Veneto with lots of outdoor seating to people watch and enjoy a leisurely long lunch.
Palto - right across from one of my favorite neighborhood sweet small parks, Piazza Maria Teresa, Palto is an excellent spot for killer wines, snacks, and great people. The owner and I had a wonderful conversation and she recommended a “very special” Lambrusco that could quite possibly be the best I’ve ever had.
I Sapori Nostri - this charming and chock full of delicious items specialty grocer includes produce, fruits, boxes upon boxes of panetonne, anchovies, wines, charcuterie, cheeses, chocolates - the list goes on. This is your spot to stock up on yummy items for your apartment or hotel room.
Magazzino 52 - this tiny restaurant is perfectly delicious with an impeccable wine list. I went for my “holiday lunch” and would have gone back if they hadn’t closed for their winter break. Superb.
Giardino Cavour - a favorite park of mine where you could find joyous dogs off-leash; perfect park benches for soaking up the winter sun and a Sunday market that couldn’t be beat: epic cheeses, farm wines, citrus, glorious veg, and more.
Caffe Elena - another good spot to sit in the sun on the Piazza Vittorio Veneto. Catch some rays with coffee or spritz or Franciacorta and a good book.
Coffee Time, bar tavola calda - a very local, not much English spoken, very welcoming neighborhood spot that I adored for morning cappuccino and brioche.
Be sure to climb the winding hill to the Chiesa di Santa Maria del Monte dei Cappuccini to see the spectacular views of the city and the surrounding mountain ranges.
Sit outside one of the cafes on the River Po and watch the rowers.
For Bicèrin - I still recommend making the trek to Caffe Bicèrin (about a 25 minute walk from the Po) because it is undoubtedly the best.
Climb the Mole Antonelliana - or take the lift - to see the views of the city and experience this historic structure.
For a very full list of all the deliciousness and charm that Torino has to offer, as well as dreamy Alba (only an hour and half on the train) visit here and here.
Do let me know if you have an Italy trip planned and where you are heading. Do you need help? Or know someone planning a visit? Be sure to reach out - I’m always delighted to hear from you.
Until next time my friends, Buona Giornata