Top 2023 Travel Experiences
Revisiting my favorites for your inspiration and exploration
As I started going through my photos and notes from 2023, I was astonished that we are still in 2023.
In all honesty, 2023 has felt endless. Sometimes I feel strange writing about travel and experiences with everything going on all over the world. However, when I sit to write I return to my mantra, or intent if you will, with my substack, which is to create community around the joys of travel, of experiencing cultures and people different from our own, and supporting the people who live in the destinations we love to visit by sharing what they do. I want to continue building and serving this community that is growing. Thank you all so much for being here.
2023 continued to provide opportunities that I am so grateful for including meeting so many wonderful new people, spending in-person time with my son, sharing food, wine, and conversation with friends I made on previous travels, and experiencing cities and towns for the very first time, while also spending time in not so old favorites.
Below is my 2023 short list of my top travel experiences.
I hope they inspire you and provide good resources for your travels in 2024.
As always - please feel free to reach out to me with any questions. I love to hear from you.
*These are in order of occurrence rather than ranked as they are all wonderful.
Slow Travel: from London to Edinburgh Scotland by train
I was fortunate to be able to arrange for an unexpected extended visit to Scotland while staying in Italy at the end of 2022. Things fell into place for me to explore a city and country that had been calling to me for some time and I said an enthusiastic yes.
When I booked my apartment in Stockbridge, Edinburgh for January 18, I decided to arrive in London a few days early (another favorite city - see my post here) to spend a couple of days and then take a train to Edinburgh.
My friends, the train is the way to go, if you can. The ride from London to Edinburgh on LNER train was fantastic. A journey of about 4.5 hours, the train takes you through stunning scenery of the United Kingdom countryside and seaside. LNER train is very comfortable with excellent service and I was delighted with my food and tea. But the real joy was in watching the scenery. At one train stop, I spotted a fox all curled up under a tree! And this lighthouse scene below from just outside of Edinburgh was magic.
Edinburgh, Haddington and the Highlands
I spent 6 weeks in Scotland, during the winter, which some folks thought might be crazy. It was not. I LOVED it. Immediately upon arrival, I was enchanted by the stunning beauty of the city. My apartment, in Stockbridge, was perfect in every way and the city is easily walkable. I loved the cold days of sunlight, walking the burn (river Leith), and the rainy late afternoons in cozy bookstores. I became a huge fan of porridge (which you can read about here) and made friends in the wonderful local shops and restaurants in my neighborhood.
Haddington, Scotland
I spent one long weekend in Haddington, at Carfrae Farm Cottages. Haddington is a charming hamlet outside of Edinburgh, which you can reach by an easy 40-minute train ride. The owners of my Stockbridge apartment also own Carfrae Farm, the cottages, and a new-in-2022 fantastic farm store. I had originally only been planning to stay for 2 nights but upon arrival asked for one more night. My cottage was beyond expectation for everything wonderful, cozy, and extremely comfortable. Pure bliss. I would recommend a visit in all seasons.
A Day in the Highlands
I was so lucky to be able to book a private tour, spending a day with a Scottish historian, who drove me to some of the most incredible spots in the Highlands. We started at 7 am from Edinburgh and proceeded up into the magical Highlands. We visited famous bridges, ancient towns (which also happened to be ‘Outlander’ film spots); kirkyards, whiskey distilleries; a tiny town that is famous for the most delicious hand-pies I’ve ever tasted; the majestic Munros of Glencoe; fairy-tale castles and waterfalls and the best Coos and Sheep in the land. It was one of the best and most thoroughly enjoyable experiences I have ever had in one day of seeing so many incredible things. I was dropped off at my door, happily full of delicious things and memories around 7 pm. A full day indeed.
Scottsdale, Arizona
There’s something magic about the desert in the springtime. The days are sunny and warm and the nights are still bordering on chilly, where you need a wrap or jacket, while sitting outside and watching a breathtaking sunset.
My son lives in Scottsdale, AZ, and is the Director of Production for Scottsdale Performing Arts. Spending time with him is always a joy and we also got to enjoy some fun spots in the area.
Scottsdale Performing Arts has a gorgeous new outdoor theater that is perfect for watching shows in the balmy evenings.
Old Town Scottsdale has a pretty great Saturday Farmers Market to check out.
For dinner and/or hotel accommodation, I can heartily recommend Andaz Resort, which is beautiful and tucked away from the bustle but also close to everything. The cool thing is that you wouldn’t know this resort was where it was unless you know.
Having coffee at FOUR Coffee in Old Town is a MUST. This is the best coffee I’ve ever had in Scottsdale/Phoenix.
Chula Seafood is in a sparsely occupied strip mall in Scottsdale and is the best. You can eat in and get an array of changing menu items or get fish and shellfish for home. We ordered the salmon deviled eggs for a party we were attending and it was all I could do to now eat them all myself.
Taliesin West - Frank Lloyd Wright House - one of my very favorite places I’ve visited - a must!
Cannon Beach, Oregon
Cannon Beach is one of my favorite places in the world. Located 1.5 hours drive outside of Portland, the drive is an easy, beautiful, and meditative one to a spectacular wild seaside. Dear friends of mine from Arizona were visiting with their daughters, staying in a cabin by the famed Haystack Rock, for a week, and invited me out for a couple of days. Of course that was an immediate yes. Experiencing the wildness and beauty of the Oregon coast through the eyes of children (the tide pools at Haystack are epic) was fantastic as well as just enjoying a beach fire, s’mores, and watching the sun disappear into the ocean in the company of great friends. 10/10
Edinburgh, Scotland [Part 2], and Oban, Scotland
I was lucky enough to head back to Scotland in September of this year, with the intent of ‘Chasing Autumn’ and experiencing what I was certain would be a stunning early fall in Edinburgh. My apartment, booked with Dickins Edinburgh, was so wonderful and charming and I immediately felt at home, staying in Stockbridge again. You can read a lot of good details on experiences and restaurants, including my feature with a wonderful local here, here, and here.
I decided to spend several days exploring the West Coast of Scotland and in particular the town of Oban and the surrounding Isles. Taking the train is the way to go in Scotland. My trip was several hours through stunning vistas that included Loch Lomond and a fairy-tale castle or two. You can read all about Oban and its charms here. I can’t wait to go back.
Milano - a brief, but delicious, visit
I love Milan and it never disappoints. My whole purpose for visiting is to eat. Specifically at Ratana restaurant in the Isola neighborhood of Milan, which also happens to be the area I love to stay in. But walking the streets and parks of Milan give me great pleasure and I must always visit the truly breathtaking Duomo. Don’t sleep on Milan.
Torino and Alba - spending quality time in the Piedmont
This is my third late autumn/early winter in Italy. This year I decided to explore a new part of this country I love so much and booked 2 months in Torino [or Turin], which was the original capital of Italy (and the people of Turin are very forthcoming of this fact in a very charming way). None of my research prepared me for the true charm and beauty of this city and the kindness of its residents. A huge farmers market, Bicerin, an epic food tour with a chef all contributed to a stunning first month exploring Torino. You can read about autumn in elegant Torino here.
I split my three months in Italy this year between Torino and Firenze (Florence) where I have based myself for the last two years. As I wanted to visit the famed Langhe region, specifically Alba, for truffles and wine, in the fall, I would stay in Turin from mid-October to mid-November, then transferring to Florence through mid-December and return to Torino to a new location/apartment mid-December through January.
Alba exceeded all my (high) expectations and you can read about my dreamy experience in detail here.
Not a lot of Americans (nor people I know in the UK) have spent time in Torino and I can’t recommend it enough as an alternative to the more popular spots. An easily walkable city with a wonderful combination of Italian roots and French influence (you are so close to the French border) it is stunningly beautiful and rich in history. The food and wine are INCREDIBLE. There is also the bonus of not too many tourists.
On my second leg, where I am writing this now, I stayed right on the Po River and in the historic Piazza Vittorio Veneto and I love it here. I enjoyed my first apartment and neighborhood, which you can read about here but I LOVE this apartment, the Po, and the surrounding neighborhoods. I feel like a part of the community here and I love that. It has been fantastic and I will be sad to leave.
Firenze - a forever favorite
Finally, a wonderful return to Firenze, seeing friends I’ve made over the last two years, visiting my favorites (nature, art, food, wine, artists, chefs), and discovering some new ones. You can read all about my ‘must list’ for Florence here. I am going to be writing a new post with some places I was introduced to this year, stay tuned, as Florence seems to be on everyone’s list to visit (which is why I only spent a month this year, in between the busiest times). Firenze is a very special place and I hope it can sustain the increasing crowds. My number one recommendation: visit in an “off” or “shoulder” season to have the best experience. Same with Venice. You can read my experiences and recommendations here for Venice.
There we go, my friends. Thank you for letting me share my adventures with you here.
I’m so thankful for this little growing community and appreciate everyone who has shared and recommended my corner of the internet.
Wishing you all the happiest New Year.
Buon Anno.
2023 really does feel like it’s been 24 not 12 months long!